Gear indicator displays small u, and multupial codes (solved)

[RussellB]

Presently displays small u on the gear display.

I'll go through the previous issues leading up to my present problem which are probably connected?

A while back I left it in gear when I shut it off and wouldn't shift afterwards. Rocking back and forth fixed it. Then while on the next ride, it started to flash some forgotten code on the gear display. I reprogrammed the shift and it went away. So I thought. Later in the day, miles from nowhere, too many steep hills up and down, too far for rescue, it decided not to start. different flashing codes each time I tried to start it ( I forgot what they were, but no small u) A half hour later after letting it cool down and trying to start it again maybe 30-40 times, it started right and I drove it back. Later while unloading it, it would go in gear but it acted like it wasn't wanting to go forward. Now it has the small u on the shift display.

 

[Admin]

 

[906UP]

The small "u" is what you get when the oil temp is too low for the clutch relearn sequence

 

[RussellB]

Thanks, now that I think about it, when I did the clutch relearn, the engine was cool. I'll try it warmed up.

 

[Hondasxs]

Make sure you follow the procedure or it will not work.

P1000 - Reset the DCT Clutch / Clutch Initialize Learning Procedure Pioneer 1000 / Talon 1000

Honda Pioneer/Talon 1000 Clutch Initialize Learning Procedure Applies to both the Pioneer and the Talon. Before starting this procedure, check the following: · PGM-FI system & DTC system have no codes · Engine speed idle is normal · Sub-transmission in in “P” (parking) and cooling fan...

hondasxs.com

 

[RussellB]

Make sure you follow the procedure or it will not work.

P1000 - Reset the DCT Clutch / Clutch Initialize Learning Procedure Pioneer 1000 / Talon 1000

Honda Pioneer/Talon 1000 Clutch Initialize Learning Procedure Applies to both the Pioneer and the Talon. Before starting this procedure, check the following: · PGM-FI system & DTC system have no codes · Engine speed idle is normal · Sub-transmission in in “P” (parking) and cooling fan...

hondasxs.com

Will do! I did reload the service manual on my other computer and I still had issues opening it. Pretty sure my computers are just too old and not powerful enough to open it. I found a physical copy and should get it in a day or two. Once I get it I'll pull the codes and try again on the clutch relearn.

 

[CID]

That procedure is also linked in my sig, post #27. It’s the same for the P1K and Talon.

 

[RussellB]

Checked the codes.
DCT 4 slow 4 fast, 6 slow 2 fast
I4WD 8 slow 3 fast
PGM-FI 9 fast 4 slow 4fast

Warmed up motor, tried to clutch initialize but it won't reset.

Plus the MT and AT light is on.

 

[PaulF]

That many codes usually indicates an electrical issue. Most of these codes are a problem with the 5 volt circuit. I would start with that. Large connector on back of engine attached to frame is known to come lose but check them all.

DCT codes are main code only.
44-1 EOT Sensor Voltage Low.
44-2 EOT Sensor Voltage High.
62-1 Clutch Pressure High, Clutch EOP Malfunction.

i4WD
8-3 No such code in 2019 manual, what year is your machine?

PGM codes are main code only.
9-1 IAT sensor voltage low
9-2 IAT sensor voltage high
44- No such code in 2019 manual, what year is your machine?

 

[Hondasxs]

Agree, When it throws several codes that is usually something electrical.
Either a disconnected connection or more common rodent damage.

 

[RussellB]

2021 talon.
The I4WD code 8-3 and the PGM 44 code isn't in my 2021 manual either. I don't think I have a rodent problem, but I'll look for that issue while checking the connections.

 

[DRZRon1]

is it an X4 by chance?

as others recommended above, basics IMO to start, all grounds, battery connections, relays seated, inspect all wiring, connectors at ECU's, etc....

 

[RussellB]

is it an X4 by chance?

as others recommended above, basics IMO to start, all grounds, battery connections, relays seated, inspect all wiring, connectors at ECU's, etc....

R2.

 

[RussellB]

FIXED! Ok, so it was the big black plug at the back of the motor, ziptied to the frame at the back of the car. Had to cut the zipties as they were holding it from plugging in. When I cut them the plug just slipped apart, even though it looked plugged in. I re-did the zipties on both sides with a little slack and it clicked together. I'd like to point out that theres no way to really know if it's plugged in or not unless you cut the zipties since there's no slack in the cable.

After clearing the codes I reprogrammed the shift no problem.

I'd sure recommend checking this plug if you have your skid plate off and you have had similar issues that appear and disappear on occasion.

Thanks guys! I owe y'all a beer!

 

[906UP]

FIXED! Ok, so it was the big black plug at the back of the motor, ziptied to the frame at the back of the car. Had to cut the zipties as they were holding it from plugging in. When I cut them the plug just slipped apart, even though it looked plugged in. I re-did the zipties on both sides with a little slack and it clicked together. I'd like to point out that theres no way to really know if it's plugged in or not unless you cut the zipties since there's no slack in the cable.

After clearing the codes I reprogrammed the shift no problem.

I'd sure recommend checking this plug if you have your skid plate off and you have had similar issues that appear and disappear on occasion.

Thanks guys! I owe y'all a beer!

Excellent, thanks for updating

 

[Stilly1155]

FIXED! Ok, so it was the big black plug at the back of the motor, ziptied to the frame at the back of the car. Had to cut the zipties as they were holding it from plugging in. When I cut them the plug just slipped apart, even though it looked plugged in. I re-did the zipties on both sides with a little slack and it clicked together. I'd like to point out that theres no way to really know if it's plugged in or not unless you cut the zipties since there's no slack in the cable.

After clearing the codes I reprogrammed the shift no problem.

I'd sure recommend checking this plug if you have your skid plate off and you have had similar issues that appear and disappear on occasion.

Thanks guys! I owe y'all a beer!

You should take a picture of the plug and location so guy's that have the same problem know exactly where to look.

 

[RussellB]

You should take a picture of the plug and location so guy's that have the same problem know exactly where to look.

I did and forgot to post it. Lol, was so intent on celebrating with a beer that I forgot. View is with rear skidplate off. Looking up and towards the back of sxs. Left side gap is just a rubber cover. Right side is the loose part with a solid 1/16 gap across plug, half moon circle is not clicked in