P500 First Service

[trigger]

Okay guys, I'm due for my first service...actually over a little. I've read all the info on changing the oil and checking the valve alignment.
My questions are: oil type, I love the idea of synthetic as that's what I run in every engine I own. But I was told not to run synthetic until second oil change. That's what I did with my John Deere tractor. They say the rings and valves are still seating. Also concerned about shifting operation with synthetic.
Also read where some guys changed out the gear lube in the differentials on the first service. Should I do that already?
Lastly, the valve check. Most guys have stated that their's was on the money after going through the hassle.
Would I be getting a symptom if it weren't aligned properly? Could take it to the dealer for the first service, the price isn't really the issue, it's the hassle of taking and leaving it there. Would have to drop it off on a Saturday and pick it up the next, cutting into ride time, but I'd do it if necessary.
Just looking for some good advise...thanks.

 

[Admin]

 

[Montecresto]

Well trigger, I changed the dif oil because I wanted to use synthetic and go from straight 90 to 75-140. I used OEM oil first service but Bel Ray Thumper thereafter. Best reviews according to my research. Must be JASO whatever you choose of course. I changed my filter the first time, but not the second or third. I'll change the filter again next time. I pull the drain plug and leave it out all night to get every last drop out. Valve adjustment is a pain, and IMO not a big deal unless you have starting trouble. But again, that's my opinion. If you want to have them checked, I'd do it yourself unless you know the dealership well and trust them. Your right, between this and the other forums, the majority of those who have checked valves find them in tolerance.

 

[trigger]

Well trigger, I changed the dif oil because I wanted to use synthetic and go from straight 90 to 75-140. I used OEM oil first service but Bel Ray Thumper there after. Best reviews according to my research. Must be JASO whatever you choose of course. I changed my filter the first time, but not the second or third. I'll change the filter again next time. I pull the drain plug and leave it out all night to get every last drop out. Valve adjustment is a pain, and IMO not a big deal unless you have starting trouble. But again, that's my opinion. If you want to have them checked, I'd do it yourself unless you know the dealership well and trust them. Your right, between this and the other forums, the majority of those who have checked valves find them in tolerance.

JASO?

 

[trigger]

JASO?

Japanese Engine Oil Specifications. I looked it up.
I thought changing the filter was more important than changing the oil?
Why did you change the weight of gear lube?
Thanks for responding monte.

 

[Montecresto]

Japanese Engine Oil Specifications. I looked it up.
I thought changing the filter was more important than changing the oil?
Why did you change the weight of gear lube?
Thanks for responding monte.

I changed the filter the first time in case there would be any machinings from being a new motor. Although after cutting the little bugger open I found none. I guess you missed all the discussions about this. For some odd reason Honda failed to put a spin on filter. Changing the silver dollar size nearly worthless IMO filter is an ordeal, and people have striped bolts, and pinched o-rings causing leaks etc. I just can't see where that little thing can do very much. I'd rather pull the plug and change the oil more frequently than recommended as to change that damn filter every time, just my opinion and the way I intend to approach it. And yes, with ever changing engine technology, the Japanese created a new oil formula in the late 90's required for use in their small engines, apparently. So just be sure to get a JASO oil whatever brand you settle on. Maybe ehart will get you a deal, I think he's a distributor. Synthetic Multi viscosity gear lube quiets the dif a little.

 

[ehart814]

I run all synthetic, and like you, I waited until the second change to put synth in the motor. Changing the gear oil in the diffs is absolutely necessary and synth definitely seems to quiet it. If you've run in water, you may find some in the diffs. I feel changing the filter is necessary. It's not convenient, but by the second time you do it, it's no big deal. There are 2 orings in the filter cover. Order a set of those in case you lose or tear one. Do not over tighten the small bolts on the cover. Use good judgement when tightening and you will be fine.

JASO has to do with the wet clutch. A JASO MA or ma2 oil will prevent premature slipping of the clutch. Full synth oil in the engine really helps it shift smoother and quieter.

I adjusted the valves and found them a little off. I'm taking mine in for warranty work soon and I may have the dealer adjust them again. Probably not necessary, but just for peace of mind. Lots of people don't bother, but I want to prevent possible warranty claim issues in the unlikely event I have a motor problem. By the time I've had this thing a year I expect to have around 3000 or more miles on it...


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[Montecresto]

I'm hoping for some brainiac to develope a bilited spin on filter that will bolt right on to the same place the current cover plate is, or tap the existing cover plate to install a spin on. That tiny paper filter, which looks more like a fuel filter in size and configuration isn't cleaning my oil. I'm pulling the oil every 3-400 miles and saving it for bar and chain oil.

 

[ehart814]

Not to open a can of worms (oil threads are like cancer), but I'm a big believer in Amsoil products. Once I started using it in my bike, i had such good results I began using it in all my machines. I was buying so much that it made sense to become a dealer so I can buy it much cheaper. Their 10w-40 ATV/UTV or 10w-40 motorcycle oil are great choices for the P500. I have also used the 10w40 Mobil 1 4T oil in motorcycles with good results. I'm sure there are many other good choices out there. Whatever you choose, a good full synthetic engine oil (JASO rated is a must!) will make shifting nicer. You will notice the difference almost immediately!

I have seen a lot of people using heavier oil in the diffs. I'm a bit weary about that since here in PA the temps can get down below zero in the winter, and that may cause problems with heavier gear oil. I stuck with the 80w-90 (Amsoil ATV/UTV oil). It is very easy to change the oil in the diffs. You will need a small plastic hose to put the oil in. On the front diff, I have to force the hose in a bit to get past the ring gear. If you just try to pour it in with a funnel, it will pour right back out at you. After only 120 miles, I changed my diff oil (front and rear). The oil that came out was "shiny" will tiny metal fragments from break-in. It's a good idea to change it out early!

 

[Montecresto]

Not to open a can of worms (oil threads are like cancer), but I'm a big believer in Amsoil products. Once I started using it in my bike, i had such good results I began using it in all my machines. I was buying so much that it made sense to become a dealer so I can buy it much cheaper. Their 10w-40 ATV/UTV or 10w-40 motorcycle oil are great choices for the P500. I have also used the 10w40 Mobil 1 4T oil in motorcycles with good results. I'm sure there are many other good choices out there. Whatever you choose, a good full synthetic engine oil (JASO rated is a must!) will make shifting nicer. You will notice the difference almost immediately!

I have seen a lot of people using heavier oil in the diffs. I'm a bit weary about that since here in PA the temps can get down below zero in the winter, and that may cause problems with heavier gear oil. I stuck with the 80w-90 (Amsoil ATV/UTV oil). It is very easy to change the oil in the diffs. You will need a small plastic hose to put the oil in. On the front diff, I have to force the hose in a bit to get past the ring gear. If you just try to pour it in with a funnel, it will pour right back out at you. After only 120 miles, I changed my diff oil (front and rear). The oil that came out was "shiny" will tiny metal fragments from break-in. It's a good idea to change it out early!

 

[Montecresto]

Cancer lol. Yep, change engine oil often, main thing. Which brand, well people get all exited about it, arguments ensue etc., etc.. A good synthetic main thing.

 

[trigger]

Not to open a can of worms (oil threads are like cancer), but I'm a big believer in Amsoil products. Once I started using it in my bike, i had such good results I began using it in all my machines. I was buying so much that it made sense to become a dealer so I can buy it much cheaper. Their 10w-40 ATV/UTV or 10w-40 motorcycle oil are great choices for the P500. I have also used the 10w40 Mobil 1 4T oil in motorcycles with good results. I'm sure there are many other good choices out there. Whatever you choose, a good full synthetic engine oil (JASO rated is a must!) will make shifting nicer. You will notice the difference almost immediately!

I have seen a lot of people using heavier oil in the diffs. I'm a bit weary about that since here in PA the temps can get down below zero in the winter, and that may cause problems with heavier gear oil. I stuck with the 80w-90 (Amsoil ATV/UTV oil). It is very easy to change the oil in the diffs. You will need a small plastic hose to put the oil in. On the front diff, I have to force the hose in a bit to get past the ring gear. If you just try to pour it in with a funnel, it will pour right back out at you. After only 120 miles, I changed my diff oil (front and rear). The oil that came out was "shiny" will tiny metal fragments from break-in. It's a good idea to change it out early!

I've heard nothing but good things about Amsoil but have never used it. Royal Purple and Mobil 1 are the only synthetics that I've used.
Can you even buy Amsoil over the counter? I'll change out the diff gear oil too then. I think I'll stick to a lighter gear oil as well, being in Michigan and I'll be plowing with it all winter.
I like to take care of all my tools and that's what this machine is first and foremost.
Thanks for the info guys, I really appreciate it.

 

[Montecresto]

I've heard nothing but good things about Amsoil but have never used it. Royal Purple and Mobil 1 are the only synthetics that I've used.
Can you even buy Amsoil over the counter? I'll change out the diff gear oil too then. I think I'll stick to a lighter gear oil as well, being in Michigan and I'll be plowing with it all winter.
I like to take care of all my tools and that's what this machine is first and foremost.
Thanks for the info guys, I really appreciate it.

Multi viscosity oil and differential lubricants speak to that, it's the point for example of the 140 in the summer and the 75 in the winter.

 

[ehart814]

I've heard nothing but good things about Amsoil but have never used it. Royal Purple and Mobil 1 are the only synthetics that I've used.
Can you even buy Amsoil over the counter? I'll change out the diff gear oil too then. I think I'll stick to a lighter gear oil as well, being in Michigan and I'll be plowing with it all winter.
I like to take care of all my tools and that's what this machine is first and foremost.
Thanks for the info guys, I really appreciate it.

Amsoil is only sold through dealers - they don't sell through retail stores like walmart, autozone, etc. If you decide to try it, i'd recommend paying $10 and being a "preferred customer". If you do that, you can buy at dealer cost through mailorder. At dealer cost, it's usually cheaper than mobil 1/ royal purple / honda synth. Let me know if you want to give it a try and I'll help you out.

 

[solrus]

I buy online honda syn from ATV Parts, ATV Tires, Dirt Bike Parts, Motocross Gear, Motorcycle parts and Motorcycle Tires | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
Pro Honda HP4S Full Synthetic 4-Stroke Motor Oil 10W-30 32 oz. for 9.59$ (actually 9.11$ with cash back) and free shipping

 

[trigger]

Multi viscosity oil and differential lubricants speak to that, it's the point for example of the 140 in the summer and the 75 in the winter.

Now I'm thoroughly confused on the differential oil. What does Honda recommend?

 

[trigger]

I buy online honda syn from ATV Parts, ATV Tires, Dirt Bike Parts, Motocross Gear, Motorcycle parts and Motorcycle Tires | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
Pro Honda HP4S Full Synthetic 4-Stroke Motor Oil 10W-30 32 oz. for 9.59$ (actually 9.11$ with cash back) and free shipping

10w30 ? I just bought the GN4 from the Honda dealer and it says 10w40.
He looked it up in the book, unless he grabbed the wrong stuff off the shelf.

 

[solrus]

Correct 10w-40, my bad.

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[Montecresto]

Now I'm thoroughly confused on the differential oil. What does Honda recommend?

We boil in the summer in Oklahoma/Arkansas. Straight 90 would become like 30. That's why I'm using a multi viscosity. Hondas recommendations on oil and gear lube are probably what they ship them out with.

 

[trigger]

We boil in the summer in Oklahoma/Arkansas. Straight 90 would become like 30. That's why I'm using a multi viscosity. Hondas recommendations on oil and gear lube are probably what they ship them out with.

Been reading up on it a bit...I think the 80w90 might be the way to go for this climate.
Honda makes a synthetic gear lube too I think?

 

[solrus]

Just checked in the garage its 10w-30 synthetic , I think it will be ok to use since I'm in colder climate