P700 EPS recall done + fuel pump. Now it dies when driving.

[Glock21user]

Well.. here's some irony. 4 hours after posting the above, my machine starts doing the dying off again. This is the first time this has happened in probably a thousand miles or a few months or better. I removed the ground out on the trail and tried to scrape it off a bit with a knife and reinstalled it. So we'll see how it goes on the way back to the vehicle. I'm not a fortune teller or a psychic, but I'm seeing a Yamaha visit in the future. Used to buy Hondas to get away from s*** like this, but the longer I own it, the longer I begin to realize that that Honda has lost its edge.

I totally see where you are.
Ours has been good but with everything I'm seeing go wrong with Honda I may rethink my loyalty as well.
Money is too hard to make to give it away to a company that doesn't care.

 

[Admin]

 

[HondaTech]

Well.. here's some irony. 4 hours after posting the above, my machine starts doing the dying off again. This is the first time this has happened in probably a thousand miles or a few months or better. I removed the ground out on the trail and tried to scrape it off a bit with a knife and reinstalled it. So we'll see how it goes on the way back to the vehicle. I'm not a fortune teller or a psychic, but I'm seeing a Yamaha visit in the future. Used to buy Hondas to get away from s*** like this, but the longer I own it, the longer I begin to realize that that Honda has lost its edge.

These issues are the first ive had out of the 700, save the camshaft failures and brake noises.

 

[DG Rider]

These issues are the first ive had out of the 700, save the camshaft failures and brake noises.

Yeah...I don't get it. My 1st 700 was absolutely as reliable as you could ever ask for. I admit that I didn't reseal the ground connection like I told @Slackjaw to above.
In the last few weeks I've been looking at it thinking "man I should have put something on that to keep the rust out". So maybe I am psychic.

 

[DG Rider]

Machine had no issues on the way back to the trailer.

 

[HondaTech]

Yeah...I don't get it. My 1st 700 was absolutely as reliable as you could ever ask for. I admit that I didn't reseal the ground connection like I told @Slackjaw to above.
In the last few weeks I've been looking at it thinking "man I should have put something on that to keep the rust out". So maybe I am psychic.

Ive had guys like the last camshaft i did that had more rust on the frame than a Toyota Tacoma and never missed a beat except for the cam.

Ive seen atvs, rusted in half with salt corrosion and never have the grounds touched.

Not saying thats not the issue, but my experience with these units seems like frame grounds havent been a problem

 

[DG Rider]

Ive had guys like the last camshaft i did that had more rust on the frame than a Toyota Tacoma and never missed a beat except for the cam.

Ive seen atvs, rusted in half with salt corrosion and never have the grounds touched.

Not saying thats not the issue, but my experience with these units seems like frame grounds havent been a problem

I might not be. It's just something I could do on the trail. That and I'd messed with it before.

 

[DG Rider]

Machine had no issues on the way back to the trailer.

I should elaborate that this doesn't necessarily mean that the ground was a problem. When it was doing this before, it was super sporadic.

 

[DG Rider]

I think I'm going to take my old ignition switch and cut the harness off and butt connect the leads in the "on" position (and probably a generic push button to start). Use it for testing to eliminate the switch (again) if it acts up consistently enough...or if it s***s all together.

 

[DG Rider]

@HondaTech where is this third ground lug? I only see 2 back behind the gas tank...unless you count the big ground to the engine.

Also: is there any info in where the "junctions" are located within the wire harness? The auto field usually has location maps for stuff like that, but I'm not seeing them in the FSM.

 

[HondaTech]

@HondaTech where is this third ground lug? I only see 2 back behind the gas tank...unless you count the big ground to the engine.

View attachment 313942

Also: is there any info in where the "junctions" are located within the wire harness? The auto field usually has location maps for stuff like that, but I'm not seeing them in the FSM.

I'll have to look at a 700 closer and see if I can find all of them.

The frame to engine grounds are marked with black lines since the wire is encased un a black outer sleeve. These are green wires so the unit will have green wire on the grounds.

 

[DG Rider]

I'll have to look at a 700 closer and see if I can find all of them.

The frame to engine grounds are marked with black lines since the wire is encased un a black outer sleeve. These are green wires so the unit will have green wire on the grounds.

After I posted this I found the big frame ground on the diagram in the upper right corner. I also forget that 2 eyelets are kind of interlocked...so they appear as one, but are actually 2. Maybe that represents the 3.

 

[DG Rider]

I cleaned all the grounds again with sandpaper, taking the mounting point on the frame down to bare metal again, but this time I hit it with some paint to seal the area (unlike last time).

All you can really do is wait and see.

An observation I've made before: turning the ignition switch off and on very quickly doesn't kill the machine. You have to leave it off for like a 1/2 second before you get the gauge reboot. It seems like any sort of bad connection in the switch would have to interrupt power for that long to cause this (which is certainly possible).

I took my old switch apart expecting to see corrosion, but there was nothing. No carbon tracks...nothing. One of the "shoes" was a little cocked, but under the pressure from the plate on top, I doubt this would happen. I know some people have had bad switches...and that seemed to fix mine, but now I have to wonder if was just a coincidence.

Could there really be something going on with the ecu?

 

[Slackjaw]

I cleaned all the grounds again with sandpaper, taking the mounting point on the frame down to bare metal again, but this time I hit it with some paint to seal the area (unlike last time).

All you can really do is wait and see.

An observation I've made before: turning the ignition switch off and on very quickly doesn't kill the machine. You have to leave it off for like a 1/2 second before you get the gauge reboot. It seems like any sort of bad connection in the switch would have to interrupt power for that long to cause this (which is certainly possible).

I took my old switch apart expecting to see corrosion, but there was nothing. No carbon tracks...nothing. One of the "shoes" was a little cocked, but under the pressure from the plate on top, I doubt this would happen. I know some people have had bad switches...and that seemed to fix mine, but now I have to wonder if was just a coincidence.

Could there really be something going on with the ecu?

I'm considering bypassing all switches that ground the spark like the tip over switch, seatbelt switch etc just to rule them out.

 

[DG Rider]

I'm considering bypassing all switches that ground the spark like the tip over switch, seatbelt switch etc just to rule them out.

Im pretty sure there is no tip switch. I know the older ones didn't have one. The seatbelt switch should only limit speed. Mine has been bypassed for most of my ownership.

Did you take yours in?

I'm debating on contacting my salesman. They have an X2 in stock...

 

[Slackjaw]

It's at the stealership. I anticipate for a long time. I may offer it on trade at a different dealership.

 

[DG Rider]

It's at the stealership. I anticipate for a long time. I may offer it on trade at a different dealership.

Cant say I blame you. It sucks, because this sort of thing isn't what the 700 is known for.

 

[HondaTech]

I'm considering bypassing all switches that ground the spark like the tip over switch, seatbelt switch etc just to rule them out.

No tip over switch and the seatbelt switch only limits vehicle speed.

These dont operate like old school units, they provide full power to the coils whenever the key is on and use the ecm to fire the coil by ground triggering.

The issue at hand appears to be and entire loss of power to the whole unit. I'd bet if you were to pull the spark plug boot off with the engine running the meter wouldnt act like the problem we're seeing.

 

[DG Rider]

The issue at hand appears to be and entire loss of power to the whole unit. I'd bet if you were to pull the spark plug boot off with the engine running the meter wouldnt act like the problem we're seeing.

I bet you're right. Actually...I know your right. I've pulled relays while running to see if one of those might be doing it. No reboot. Just dies, as you'd expect.
The only things I've done that duplicate it are interrupting the grounds or cutting the key off and back on (IE interrupting power) I'm guessing the right fuse might do it...but we already know power is being interrupted. I've even discovered that the machine will start and run with the gauges completely disconnected.

 

[DG Rider]

Did my emergency ignition switch bypass harness tonight. In the meantime, I decided to do a little testing with the old switch by tearing my fresh grounds back apart and hooking them up to it.
As I mentioned above, quickly turning the ignition switch off and back on doesn't kill the machine OR cause the Christmas tree on the dash.

What I found was interesting: the absolute instant I turned my "ground ignition switch" off, the whole machine shut down, and returning it to on immediately got the gauge reboot. Unlike the real ignition switch, I could not turn the rigged ground switch off and back on fast enough to keep the machine from shutting down.

This would seem to indicate that it is much more sensitive to a poor connection on the ground side than something In the ignition switch (IE - power feed). Interesting.

 

[WagginTail]

Did my emergency ignition switch bypass harness tonight. In the meantime, I decided to do a little testing with the old switch by tearing my fresh grounds back apart and hooking them up to it.
As I mentioned above, quickly turning the ignition switch off and back on doesn't kill the machine OR cause the Christmas tree on the dash.

What I found was interesting: the absolute instant I turned my "ground ignition switch" off, the whole machine shut down, and returning it to off immediately got the gauge reboot. Unlike the real ignition switch, I could not turn the rigged ground switch off and back on fast enough to keep the machine from shutting down.

This would seem to indicate that it is much more sensitive to a poor connection on the ground side than something In the ignition switch (IE - power feed). Interesting.

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