P1000 enclosed 6'x12' or 7'x12'

[sheba4]

ok I am going to buy a enclosed trailer for my p1000 deluxe with hard Honda roof... looking at H&H trailers
how many of you have tried to get your p1000-5 inside a 63.5" wide ramp door...I think the Hondas are 63.0" wide... probably will have to go with a 7x12 I think when they state 7x12 they are talking 7.0' high or are they talking 7.0' wide at the door... not sure... your payload is eaten up by your curbside weight which is gvr is 3000 lbs - trailer weight around 1100lbs so your payload is 1900lbs. not much room to reach the max...
however trailer manufactures usually give about 25% more gvw because they know people are going to push the limit...that is ok but you do not want to be going across a RR track at 65 mph with close to gvw or you will bend a spring...guess how I know that...

thanks in advance,
Gary

 

[Admin]

 

[Cuoutdoors]

7x12 means its 7ft wide. I wouldn't attempt a 6x12 and I dont know how the hell you're getting out of the machine in a 7x12. It's going to be very tight. Cheat the machine to one side and you can barely scoot by. Otherwise you're crawling over the front or back. I had a 7x16 and sold it for an 8.5x20'.

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[JTW]

I think an 8.5’ wide and 14-16 long (minimum), with a 7’ door opening would make a lot more sense for you!

 

[sheba4]

7x12 means its 7ft wide. I wouldn't attempt a 6x12 and I dont know how the hell you're getting out of the machine in a 7x12. It's going to be very tight. Cheat the machine to one side and you can barely scoot by. Otherwise you're crawling over the front or back. I had a 7x16 and sold it for an 8.5x20'.

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I here ya, I have that figured out...I can scoot it to one side and it has a service door of 36.0" on the passenger side... open that and can get out. also I will have a winch in front with a remote and it will drop into some wheel chokes mounted in the floor...

 

[JTW]

I here ya, I have that figured out...I can scoot it to one side and it has a service door of 36.0" on the passenger side... open that and can get out. also I will have a winch in front with a remote and it will drop into some wheel chokes mounted in the floor...

Mine rides on a 7x14 trailer most of the time... keep in mind how your weight is going to sit in that trailer and how a loaded bed will change your tongue weight. Are you talking about a single or tandem axle?

 

[JTW]

If you’re buying an enclosed you’re crazynif you don’t get one large enough for extra stuff... spare tires, parts, gear etc.

 

[sheba4]

I think an 8.5’ wide and 14-16 long (minimum), with a 7’ door opening would make a lot more sense for you!

I think your right but just wanted to not go that big and cut down on a bugger expense... I will only use this 3 times a year for towing up to the cabin.... I am also buying a open 7x12 utility so may I will just use that to haul it and buy a 6x12 for my other 500 foreman and my big red 3 wheeler...

thanks,
Gary

 

[sheba4]

If you’re buying an enclosed you’re crazynif you don’t get one large enough for extra stuff... spare tires, parts, gear etc.

not crazy, one just has to plan!
all my extra stuff can go in my club cab Silverado... tire will be mounted inside up in front with shelving... believe me I have thought about this for 3 weeks now...I am a very good planner...

 

[JTW]

Well good luck to ya!

 

[1K5LE]

OK, I don't chime in much on here but when it comes to trailers I almost have to! I currently have a 6.5 x 12 utility, a 8.5 x 42 5th wheel toyhauler (RV) and I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a 8.5 x 28 bumper pull race enclosed trailer (for storage, trips without RV etc.). I have pulled just about every type of trailer made and here is my 2 cents...

Do not get anything less than a 7' wide for your pioneer, 8.5 highly recommended but hard to find length you want. That rear door measurement usually does not take into account the measurement between support cables. You will lose 2" or so there.

Go longer, 2 feet cost very little and makes all the difference in the world. You will end up wanting a toolbox, gas cans, gear bag... something else in there.

Go v-nose if possible, helps with mpg a little and gives you and extra 1-2' interior length depending on manufacturer. Watch the rear door height, most enclosed the size you are looking will have a standard height of 69" height whereas your deluxe is over 76". You will need to order the "extra 1' height" option on the trailer. Again, hard to find sitting on the lot in that size range.

Finally... GO TANDEM AXLE and GET BRAKES ON BOTH AXLES. It may seem like overkill and 99.9% of the time it is. But when you want to stop having 4 extra brakes makes all the difference in the world. Trailer tires will be the cheapest Chinese crap they can buy. Having 4 and replacing them ASAP are always a good idea. When you lose a tire with any weight in the trailer the rig will want to fishtail. When you lose 1 of 2 on that side that ride isn't nearly as likely to go real bad. Good Luck on your decision!

 

[Cuoutdoors]

OK, I don't chime in much on here but when it comes to trailers I almost have to! I currently have a 6.5 x 12 utility, a 8.5 x 42 5th wheel toyhauler (RV) and I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a 8.5 x 28 bumper pull race enclosed trailer (for storage, trips without RV etc.). I have pulled just about every type of trailer made and here is my 2 cents...

Do not get anything less than a 7' wide for your pioneer, 8.5 highly recommended but hard to find length you want. That rear door measurement usually does not take into account the measurement between support cables. You will lose 2" or so there.

Go longer, 2 feet cost very little and makes all the difference in the world. You will end up wanting a toolbox, gas cans, gear bag... something else in there.

Go v-nose if possible, helps with mpg a little and gives you and extra 1-2' interior length depending on manufacturer. Watch the rear door height, most enclosed the size you are looking will have a standard height of 69" height whereas your deluxe is over 76". You will need to order the "extra 1' height" option on the trailer. Again, hard to find sitting on the lot in that size range.

Finally... GO TANDEM AXLE and GET BRAKES ON BOTH AXLES. It may seem like overkill and 99.9% of the time it is. But when you want to stop having 4 extra brakes makes all the difference in the world. Trailer tires will be the cheapest Chinese crap they can buy. Having 4 and replacing them ASAP are always a good idea. When you lose a tire with any weight in the trailer the rig will want to fishtail. When you lose 1 of 2 on that side that ride isn't nearly as likely to go real bad. Good Luck on your decision!

Spot on!

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[JTW]

OK, I don't chime in much on here but when it comes to trailers I almost have to! I currently have a 6.5 x 12 utility, a 8.5 x 42 5th wheel toyhauler (RV) and I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a 8.5 x 28 bumper pull race enclosed trailer (for storage, trips without RV etc.). I have pulled just about every type of trailer made and here is my 2 cents...

Do not get anything less than a 7' wide for your pioneer, 8.5 highly recommended but hard to find length you want. That rear door measurement usually does not take into account the measurement between support cables. You will lose 2" or so there.

Go longer, 2 feet cost very little and makes all the difference in the world. You will end up wanting a toolbox, gas cans, gear bag... something else in there.

Go v-nose if possible, helps with mpg a little and gives you and extra 1-2' interior length depending on manufacturer. Watch the rear door height, most enclosed the size you are looking will have a standard height of 69" height whereas your deluxe is over 76". You will need to order the "extra 1' height" option on the trailer. Again, hard to find sitting on the lot in that size range.

Finally... GO TANDEM AXLE and GET BRAKES ON BOTH AXLES. It may seem like overkill and 99.9% of the time it is. But when you want to stop having 4 extra brakes makes all the difference in the world. Trailer tires will be the cheapest Chinese crap they can buy. Having 4 and replacing them ASAP are always a good idea. When you lose a tire with any weight in the trailer the rig will want to fishtail. When you lose 1 of 2 on that side that ride isn't nearly as likely to go real bad. Good Luck on your decision!

100% agree!!

 

[Choogsbro]

Mine is 7X14 vnose.

 

[Choogsbro]

7 foot is tight getting in and out of the machine.

 

[Choogsbro]

Since those pictures I've added a fridge and a porta pooper.

 

[sheba4]

OK, I don't chime in much on here but when it comes to trailers I almost have to! I currently have a 6.5 x 12 utility, a 8.5 x 42 5th wheel toyhauler (RV) and I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a 8.5 x 28 bumper pull race enclosed trailer (for storage, trips without RV etc.). I have pulled just about every type of trailer made and here is my 2 cents...

Do not get anything less than a 7' wide for your pioneer, 8.5 highly recommended but hard to find length you want. That rear door measurement usually does not take into account the measurement between support cables. You will lose 2" or so there.

Go longer, 2 feet cost very little and makes all the difference in the world. You will end up wanting a toolbox, gas cans, gear bag... something else in there.

Go v-nose if possible, helps with mpg a little and gives you and extra 1-2' interior length depending on manufacturer. Watch the rear door height, most enclosed the size you are looking will have a standard height of 69" height whereas your deluxe is over 76". You will need to order the "extra 1' height" option on the trailer. Again, hard to find sitting on the lot in that size range.

Finally... GO TANDEM AXLE and GET BRAKES ON BOTH AXLES. It may seem like overkill and 99.9% of the time it is. But when you want to stop having 4 extra brakes makes all the difference in the world. Trailer tires will be the cheapest Chinese crap they can buy. Having 4 and replacing them ASAP are always a good idea. When you lose a tire with any weight in the trailer the rig will want to fishtail. When you lose 1 of 2 on that side that ride isn't nearly as likely to go real bad. Good Luck on your decision!

ok thanks, I did find a H&H trailer with the extra 1.0' higher... I know a tandem is much better, i use to own a 24 haulmark to trailer my plane. and it was nice..
in mn. it is required to have brakes on both axels...

thanks,
Gary

 

[sheba4]

Mine rides on a 7x14 trailer most of the time... keep in mind how your weight is going to sit in that trailer and how a loaded bed will change your tongue weight. Are you talking about a single or tandem axle?

I am thinking of one 3500lb dexter... I know 2 more feet is not a big deal in cost but a little more weight and I am almost over gvw...

 

[JTW]

I am thinking of one 3500lb dexter... I know 2 more feet is not a big deal in cost but a little more weight and I am almost over gvw...

I would do a tandem axle no question... my little trailer is aluminum and when I’m all loaded it’s pushing it. Not a big deal as we’ve got other bigger trailers but if I were buying on specifically for the sxs.. it would be a tandem. 8.5x16-20 with a 7’ door.

 

[1K5LE]

I am thinking of one 3500lb dexter... I know 2 more feet is not a big deal in cost but a little more weight and I am almost over gvw...

I get it which is why if I were recommending a trailer set-up to a friend who says "I am almost over gvwr…" I'd say go tandem axle so you won't be. It is more than about the ability to add length. It is about better tracking, easier backing and less precision needed on weight distribution. Most importantly it is about your safety. When you are near gvwr you are stressing each component of that suspension.Then you add a 1 ft. to the top of the trailer and you are increasing curb weight and moving that center of gravity up just a bit. I'm certainly not saying this will end in a bad crash or ever wishing that on anyone, I'm just saying think about it. Utility trailers tend not to be affected by a single vs tandem in a bad situation because they don't have the same higher center of gravity or wind working against them. If you go enclosed for P1000 weight, I'd go tandem no question...

A lot of factors at play here with lifted tow vehicle and likely "freak out" response by the driver...

Driver does a great job but watch the slight fishtail, a tandem would have maintained its line with a lot less drama involved...

 

[trigger]

FWIW, I just bought one last year and I can tell you that 6' shouldn't even be considered for a P1. Mine is a 7' x 12' and if I had to do it again I would get a 14'er and tandem axle. This has a 7' interior height and V nose. Keep in mind this is a P5 and it fits like a glove, just enough room to get around it.