P1000 Cv boot oddity

[Plumber32]

Hammering down this weekend on a gravel road I could smell something burning looked behind and had smoke coming out rear! Quickly realized it's cv grease on the exhaust thank god!

Weird part is I can't see a tear or hole. It's obvious where it came out, appears by the clamp close to rear diff. Could it of got hot enough to push past the clamp? I put on 200 miles like this, and wasn't babying it, mud, sand hill climbs, 65mph alot of high speed running, never started clicking. Should I assume it's shot? And replace the whole works?

 

[Admin]

 

[ToddACimer]

I have a cv boot tear along the edge of the clamp on the shaft. It would wipe clean and no hole was visible but when it got hot it would purge grease from the clamp

 

[Plumber32]

I have a cv boot tear along the edge of the clamp on the shaft. It would wipe clean and no hole was visible but when it got hot it would purge grease from the clamp

Probably exactly what this is. What did you do to fix it

 

[ToddACimer]

Probably exactly what this is. What did you do to fix it

I ran it about 200 miles purging grease because I didn't have time to fix it and it was good riding weather. Ended up with a bunch mud inside the boot. I cleaned the CV with brake clean and ATF before refilling with grease and replacing the boot. Rocky mountain sells the inner and outer boots with new clamps for $55. If it's an inner boot you can replace it pretty easy but the big clamp is kind of a bear. If it's an outer you will have to pull the inner boot out and remove the shaft, then build up the outer on the bench and reinstall the inner on the machine. This way you don't drain the diff. You'll need a CV clamp tool or a good torque multiplyer pliers to squeeze those clamps

 

[ToddACimer]

I removed the a-arms to get the shaft out, well because they were both bent but you could remove the knuckle instead. In my case it was a left front shaft

 

[Plumber32]

I removed the a-arms to get the shaft out, well because they were both bent but you could remove the knuckle instead. In my case it was a left front shaft

View attachment 77079

Yep. Inner boot right on cup to rear diff.

 

[ToddACimer]

Yep. Inner boot right on cup to rear diff.

You could probably replace the inner by removing the shock, sway bar and upper a-arm. Take the CV clamps off and slide the boot down the shaft, remove the CV retainer ring and pop the CV apart. Then installed the new boot and add grease before slipping it back together

 

[Plumber32]

You could probably replace the inner by removing the shock, sway bar and upper a-arm. Take the CV clamps off and slide the boot down the shaft, remove the CV retainer ring and pop the CV apart. Then installed the new boot and add grease before slipping it back together

I'm going to buy a new axle then rebuild this one for a spare. Wonder if any of them come complete.

 

[Smitty335]

Yep. Inner boot right on cup to rear diff.

I thought plumbers only used duct tape? HA!

 

[ToddACimer]

I'm going to buy a new axle then rebuild this one for a spare. Wonder if any of them come complete.

Rocky mountain sells them. They are the not the same left and right. Looks like the boots and clamps are $41 and the shaft is $175 for a 2016 machine

 

[snuffnwhisky]

I'm going to buy a new axle then rebuild this one for a spare. Wonder if any of them come complete.

Look for All Balls 8 ball on ebay. Think they were $160 complete.

 

[Plumber32]

Look for All Balls 8 ball on ebay. Think they were $160 complete.

Yep I just ordered it on Amazon. Right rear will be passenger side Correct? Also looks like the boot pulled out of the factory clamp??? Weird

 

[Smitty335]

Yep I just ordered it on Amazon. Right rear will be passenger side Correct? Also looks like the boot pulled out of the factory clamp??? Weird

That happened to me? Trusty ice pick and Channel locks fixed that! Thought I was going to have to find the duct tape!

 

[snuffnwhisky]

Yep I just ordered it on Amazon. Right rear will be passenger side Correct? Also looks like the boot pulled out of the factory clamp??? Weird

Correct

 

[Plumber32]

Rocky mountain sells them. They are the not the same left and right. Looks like the boots and clamps are $41 and the shaft is $175 for a 2016 machine

View attachment 77090

Ordered the boot, grease and clamp. $15. Figure I can use it for a spare.

 

[Smitty335]

Ordered the boot, grease and clamp. $15. Figure I can use it for a spare.

my outer clamp came off and was on the axel, still connected, no boot tear?????

 

[Plumber32]

my outer clamp came off and was on the axel, still connected, no boot tear?????

Can't see a tear. Just the goofy clamp and grease inline with it. Gotta admit I figured the tune that @joeymt33 plugged into my motor blew it because of the smoke that came out at a high rate of speed. Thank God it was only a CV joint

 

[joeymt33]

Can't see a tear. Just the goofy clamp and grease inline with it. Gotta admit I figured the tune that @joeymt33 plugged into my motor blew it because of the smoke that came out at a high rate of speed. Thank God it was only a CV joint

Your diff fluid shouldn’t be higher than the hole for the shaft. If you wanted to be safe than you could lift your passenger side just a little bit. It shouldn’t be too hard to pop that axle out then. The rear is very easy to pull the axle nut and knuckle. When doing the front I disconnect the lower a arm and tie it up out of the way so I don’t have to remove the ball joint nuts from the knuckle.

Also, you can cut the clamps if you’re going to replace with new ones or cut the boot and then you can access the snap ring inside and leave the CV cup but pull the axle out. Since you’re a plumber, you probably have a Oetiker clamp tool. That’s what I use. It’s not too hard to clamp on but it’s fairly difficult to use that tool to remove one and save it.

 

[Smitty335]

You’re diff fluid shouldn’t be higher than the hole for the shaft. If you wanted to be safe than you could lift your passenger side just a little bit. It shouldn’t be too hard to pop that axle out then. The rear is very easy to pull the axle nut and knuckle. When doing the front I disconnect the lower a arm and tie it up out of the way so I don’t have to remove the ball joint nuts from the knuckle.

Also, you can cut the clamps if you’re going to replace with new ones or cut the boot and then you can access the snap ring inside and leave the CV cup but pull the axle out. Since you’re a plumber, you probably have a Oetiker clamp tool. That’s what I use. It’s not too hard to clamp on but it’s fairly difficult to use that tool to remove one and save it.

We just have hammers and blunt screw drivers

 

[Plumber32]

We just have hammers and blunt screw drivers

Tin snips!