P1000 Clutch Replacement

[Hondasxs]

It has been highly recommended to stick to oem recommendations by some people in the know.
Here is how it was explained to me.

The computer (based off the GN4 specs) knows the exact time to engage and disengage the clutches based on (X) temperate of the oil.

If you change this. What happens?

Will it cause the expected velocities to be off?
Will clutch timing be altered due to the mis-calculated specs?
What happens during that split second both clutches are engaged together?
Or that split second they are not?
How much added wear can it handle?


Personally I haven't a clue. But I trust Honda knows best.

I expect year 2 to have solutions.

 

[Admin]

 

[CumminsPusher]

Oil choices always seems to get people's feathers ruffled. We all believe in different things and don't like that challenged. For me it's always been Rotella. On the p1k I'll be listening to the recommendations and running gn4 as of last oil change forward not necessarily because I believe it's better just designed for.


Sent from iPhone

 

[Hometeam]

It has been highly recommended to stick to oem recommendations by some people in the know.
Here is how it was explained to me.

The computer (based off the GN4 specs) knows the exact time to engage and disengage the clutches based on (X) temperate of the oil.

If you change this. What happens?

Will it cause the expected velocities to be off?
Will clutch timing be altered due to the mis-calculated specs?
What happens during that split second both clutches are engaged together?
Or that split second they are not?
How much added wear can it handle?


Personally I haven't a clue. But I trust Honda knows best.

I expect year 2 to have solutions.

Interesting info! Absolutely not trying to argue this but find that info interesting. I'm not an automotive expert but have tuned and pushed everything from off-road to on-road cars and trucks and have never had one so sensitive to oil temp for clutch engagement...now most have been manual transmissions but still....and I don't have a lot of experience with wet clutches so maybe that's the difference. And over time conventional oil tends to build up more than synthetic. So logic would tell me that over time synthetic would be better. It's just weird. Those answers from Honda almost make you feel like they aren't 100% sure and don't want to bring another variable in. This would be the only thing that I know of with a motor that being made today that doesn't benefit from synthetic oil.

I have torn 2 truck motors apart with in the last year both with around 100k mile and both had Amsoil synthetic in them. (It was not an oil related failure) One shop called and asked if the mileage was correct on one of them due to there being no build up anywhere (or wear on the parts) in the motor and every other one had sludge build up on it. The other motor we torn all the way down and motor shop asked the same thing....said there is no way this had 100+k on it due no wear signs.

I am a synthetic guy because of how I run my things (generally harder than average) and my businesses repair bills go down from it. I know this has been hashed over and hashed over again and again! But it just has me perplexed and some things seem to not add up totally....anyway thanks for help guys!

 

[CumminsPusher]

I understand how you feel @Hometeam! I've two Honda bikes 12k and 15k on them been running t6 from damn near day one and never a failure. One bike actually requires it for the clutch side. Use it in everything. Like I've said I hate having to run something different in just one vehicle so I've been on the fence on this and maybe it is a cop out but but maybe there is some logic somewhere in the madness. I now believe same as @JACKAL and maybe we should listen to Honda on this one. My warranty has been useless I'd rather not see that needed or happen to others if it did come down to oil. I hate jumping ship but I'd just run gn4


Sent from iPhone

 

[Hometeam]

I understand how you feel @Hometeam! I've two Honda bikes 12k and 15k on them been running t6 from damn near day one and never a failure. One bike actually requires it for the clutch side. Use it in everything. Like I've said I hate having to run something different in just one vehicle so I've been on the fence on this and maybe it is a cop out but but maybe there is some logic somewhere in the madness. I now believe same as @JACKAL and maybe we should listen to Honda on this one. My warranty has been useless I'd rather not see that needed or happen to others if it did come down to oil. I hate jumping ship but I'd just run gn4


Sent from iPhone

Yeah that's what I'm gonna do for now also. Thanks CP!

 

[Acall20]

For the guys who have done their own clutches, are you guys just pulling the back clutch off and not the whole assembly with the gear attached? Just curious to see how you guys do it. Honda wanted us to pull the whole rear cover off, but now their just pulling the clutch off so you don't have to set the balancer gear tension. Which requires removing the back cover.

For the guys who have done their own clutches, are you guys just pulling the back clutch off and not the whole assembly with the gear attached? Just curious to see how you guys do it. Honda wanted us to pull the whole rear cover off, but now their just pulling the clutch off so you don't have to set the balancer gear tension. Which requires removing the back cover.

How do u know the full model of your pioneer I have a 1000-5 d but their are like 10 options when u go to buy parts?

 

[HondaTech]

Youll want SXS10M5DG, the A, 2A, 3A or whatever is color. So unless your ordering colored parts, or wheels on the Deluxe, everything will be the same.

 

[Jimmy-AZ]

Youll want SXS10M5DG, the A, 2A, 3A or whatever is color. So unless your ordering colored parts, or wheels on the Deluxe, everything will be the same.

If you are under warranty please please stay with the manufacturer recommended oil's. That way they can not disqualify your warranty issue.