P1000 Bed swapped 3 to 5 rear clearance issues and a few other questions

[Rossi386]

New member I’m sure some of this has been covered but I have a few things and figured it would be better to just do a new post. So I have a 22 p1000-3 deluxe I wanted the 5 but couldn’t pass up the deal. I found someone who wanted to trade beds. We swapped my deluxe doors, bed, and roof for his base doors,bed half cage and roof. I think it was a fair trade for everyone. However I did not do my research which is an on going issue that I’m trying to get better at. I didn’t take into account how much heavier the bed on the 5 is. I was bottoming out in the rear everywhere. I didn’t realize the 5 has different shocks in the rear. So I went on eBay and bought a set of oem shocks for a 5 and that was my first mistake, thought I was getting a pair for 150 only to find out that was per shock🤦‍♂️ but got the other one thinking it would solve my problem and it did help but not much. I get hung up in the rear all the time still the front is fine. It seems like there is very little angle on the rear arms almost as if the bed was fully loaded down even when it’s totally empty. My buddy’s 700-4 with smaller tires and just coil spacers will clear ruts that I immediately bottom out on. So since satv was running a sale and I was already buying front arched an arms to clear my 28 Aztecs I got a bracket lift also. Didn’t realize until after I purchased it that not only does it make an already rough ride even worse but I need to purchase rhino 2.0 axles to run the lift with the arms. I know I should have done my research which is why I’m here now. Im looking at the m1 shocks since they claim they can add 2 inch’s of lift. I definitely want to lift it because Id like to eventually go bigger my wheels and possibly put portals on it but that’s way down the road if ever.

My first question is do all the 1000-5 have that little clearance/ angle in the rear or did the seller on eBay send me shocks for a 3 and claim they were for a 5? Second will the m1s help this issue in the rear? And third can I run the m1s up front with the arched an arms and still keep my stock axles for now I’ll eventually upgrade them but I’m trying to do it in stages. Thanks in advance sorry if this had been covered before and for the long post

 

[Admin]

 

[Robobrainiac]

I am not sure what clearance angle you are referring to. If you get bored you could check the part numbers on the OE Shocks. They should be able to be referenced on partzilla.com to verify fitment.

Pretty much all of the aftermarket shocks are adjustable and you can add lift. Fox, Elka, Rough Country ect.. Load down the pioneer to how you trail ride and set the pre load in the rear and it should give the clearance you are looking for.

I ran the highlifter arms with the highlifter bracket lift for awhile on stock axles. Eventually I started getting a click from the front and replaced both with Rhino axles. I am over 2500 miles now and the rear are still going for me. I do not believe there is a majority in agreement with which axle is the best axle. There are users on this forum who have ran OE axles at crazy angles with no issues and there are users with stock machines who can't keep axles together. Most of us on here can agree; just run the machine how you like it and replace the axles as you need them.

 

[Rossi386]

I am not sure what clearance angle you are referring to. If you get bored you could check the part numbers on the OE Shocks. They should be able to be referenced on partzilla.com to verify fitment.

Pretty much all of the aftermarket shocks are adjustable and you can add lift. Fox, Elka, Rough Country ect.. Load down the pioneer to how you trail ride and set the pre load in the rear and it should give the clearance you are looking for.

I ran the highlifter arms with the highlifter bracket lift for awhile on stock axles. Eventually I started getting a click from the front and replaced both with Rhino axles. I am over 2500 miles now and the rear are still going for me. I do not believe there is a majority in agreement with which axle is the best axle. There are users on this forum who have ran OE axles at crazy angles with no issues and there are users with stock machines who can't keep axles together. Most of us on here can agree; just run the machine how you like it and replace the axles as you need them.

How was the ride after you put on the bracket lift? That’s good to know about your experience with the stock axles. I was really getting discouraged when I saw I needed to buy new axles according to satv, because had I known that I would have gone with cfab or even sprang a little more for ttc and been done with it. Between the arms, lift and axles I’d be closer to 1000 anyway. I know it’s recommended because it’s asking the axles to do more than they where designed to do, but then of course satv is going to try and get you to buy another one of their products that’s just business. I understand I’ll probably break one eventually and I’m ok with that but some of the people I’ve talked to acted like it was going to snap on the first ride. As far as the rear I was talking about the angle on the stock an arms it just seems like it’s got a very shallow angle like it’s loaded down. I’m pretty sure I did look up the numbers when I got the oem shocks and it said it was for the 5 but I think I was just expecting more. I’ll take a pic and post it in a few

 

[JenElio]

New member I’m sure some of this has been covered but I have a few things and figured it would be better to just do a new post. So I have a 22 p1000-3 deluxe I wanted the 5 but couldn’t pass up the deal. I found someone who wanted to trade beds. We swapped my deluxe doors, bed, and roof for his base doors,bed half cage and roof. I think it was a fair trade for everyone. However I did not do my research which is an on going issue that I’m trying to get better at. I didn’t take into account how much heavier the bed on the 5 is. I was bottoming out in the rear everywhere. I didn’t realize the 5 has different shocks in the rear. So I went on eBay and bought a set of oem shocks for a 5 and that was my first mistake, thought I was getting a pair for 150 only to find out that was per shock🤦‍♂️ but got the other one thinking it would solve my problem and it did help but not much. I get hung up in the rear all the time still the front is fine. It seems like there is very little angle on the rear arms almost as if the bed was fully loaded down even when it’s totally empty. My buddy’s 700-4 with smaller tires and just coil spacers will clear ruts that I immediately bottom out on. So since satv was running a sale and I was already buying front arched an arms to clear my 28 Aztecs I got a bracket lift also. Didn’t realize until after I purchased it that not only does it make an already rough ride even worse but I need to purchase rhino 2.0 axles to run the lift with the arms. I know I should have done my research which is why I’m here now. Im looking at the m1 shocks since they claim they can add 2 inch’s of lift. I definitely want to lift it because Id like to eventually go bigger my wheels and possibly put portals on it but that’s way down the road if ever.

My first question is do all the 1000-5 have that little clearance/ angle in the rear or did the seller on eBay send me shocks for a 3 and claim they were for a 5? Second will the m1s help this issue in the rear? And third can I run the m1s up front with the arched an arms and still keep my stock axles for now I’ll eventually upgrade them but I’m trying to do it in stages. Thanks in advance sorry if this had been covered before and for the long post

Welcome to the club from South Florida

First, gotta post some pictures of your buggy....we like pics 😉

What part of FL are you in, MIA?

 

[Rossi386]

Welcome to the club from South Florida

First, gotta post some pictures of your buggy....we like pics 😉

What part of FL are you in, MIA?

Will do I was at work when I posted this. Been a lurker on here from time to time but took a break from Facebook which was my usual go to. I’m in Edgewater, little south of Daytona beach

 

[Rossi386]

I am not sure what clearance angle you are referring to. If you get bored you could check the part numbers on the OE Shocks. They should be able to be referenced on partzilla.com to verify fitment.

Pretty much all of the aftermarket shocks are adjustable and you can add lift. Fox, Elka, Rough Country ect.. Load down the pioneer to how you trail ride and set the pre load in the rear and it should give the clearance you are looking for.

I ran the highlifter arms with the highlifter bracket lift for awhile on stock axles. Eventually I started getting a click from the front and replaced both with Rhino axles. I am over 2500 miles now and the rear are still going for me. I do not believe there is a majority in agreement with which axle is the best axle. There are users on this forum who have ran OE axles at crazy angles with no issues and there are users with stock machines who can't keep axles together. Most of us on here can agree; just run the machine how you like it and replace the axles as you need them.

This is what I ment, now looking at it, it don’t look bad but it still seems a little low to me plus my camber looks like it’s a degree or two in on the top

 

[JenElio]

Will do I was at work when I posted this. Been a lurker on here from time to time but took a break from Facebook which was my usual go to. I’m in Edgewater, little south of Daytona beach

Ok cool, I know Edgewater, I lived in Port Orange for a bit. 🖕 Facebook, this is the best place for anything Honda related and then some 😂

 

[JenElio]

This is what I ment, now looking at it, it don’t look bad but it still seems a little low to me plus my camber looks like it’s a degree or two in on the top



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Your stock arms don't have any camber adjustments, that little bit at the top is normal for the stock arms. I can't really tell from the pics but, the rear stock shocks should be wider then yours appear to be. My guess is those are either fronts or off a P1K3

 

[Rossi386]

Ok cool, I know Edgewater, I lived in Port Orange for a bit. 🖕 Facebook, this is the best place for anything Honda related and then some 😂

Yep that’s for sure Facebook is a wasteland tbh the only thing I miss about it is marketplace 🤣 and born and raised here

 

[Rossi386]

Your stock arms don't have any camber adjustments, that little bit at the top is normal for the stock arms. I can't really tell from the pics but, the rear stock shocks should be wider then yours appear to be. My guess is those are either fronts or off a P1K3

Yeah I just noticed the camber when it was on the trailer last week but it was loaded with 2 big coolers and firewood from camping. I never noticed it before. As far as the shocks I’ll get the number but that’s what was making me think it was actually pk3 shocks they didn’t seem any wider than the ones I took off. I still have my originals I’ll measure them and compare

 

[Robobrainiac]

How was the ride after you put on the bracket lift? That’s good to know about your experience with the stock axles. I was really getting discouraged when I saw I needed to buy new axles according to satv, because had I known that I would have gone with cfab or even sprang a little more for ttc and been done with it. Between the arms, lift and axles I’d be closer to 1000 anyway. I know it’s recommended because it’s asking the axles to do more than they where designed to do, but then of course satv is going to try and get you to buy another one of their products that’s just business. I understand I’ll probably break one eventually and I’m ok with that but some of the people I’ve talked to acted like it was going to snap on the first ride. As far as the rear I was talking about the angle on the stock an arms it just seems like it’s got a very shallow angle like it’s loaded down. I’m pretty sure I did look up the numbers when I got the oem shocks and it said it was for the 5 but I think I was just expecting more. I’ll take a pic and post it in a few

I have the C-Fab arms currently. Front rhino axles, rear OE axles. I had the high lifter bracket lift and high lifter arms prior to the C-Fab arms. I might have put 500 miles on the highlifter with the OE axles before I started getting a clicking noise. I then replaced both front axles with Rhino. I ran the highlifter for probably another 200 miles and then switched to C-Fab. I switched to C-Fab because it allows a larger tire than the highlifter. The C-Fab also keeps the shocks at a factory angle for a little better ride than the bracket lift. I have maybe 700 miles now on the C-Fab arms with no issues.

 

[Robobrainiac]

This is what I ment, now looking at it, it don’t look bad but it still seems a little low to me plus my camber looks like it’s a degree or two in on the top



View attachment 452269

View attachment 452270

It has been awhile since I ran factory shocks and control arms. But it does look like the rear is sagging. As the rear is pushed down (incorrect pre load or too much weight) the top (camber position) is pushed in. The rear shocks look like they might be incorrect for the machine.

Also

1000-5 Deluxe rear shocks have "self leveling" after being loaded you need to drive a small bit, maybe a circle and they should "bounce" back up to "normal" ride height.

 

[Rossi386]

I have the C-Fab arms currently. Front rhino axles, rear OE axles. I had the high lifter bracket lift and high lifter arms prior to the C-Fab arms. I might have put 500 miles on the highlifter with the OE axles before I started getting a clicking noise. I then replaced both front axles with Rhino. I ran the highlifter for probably another 200 miles and then switched to C-Fab. I switched to C-Fab because it allows a larger tire than the highlifter. The C-Fab also keeps the shocks at a factory angle for a little better ride than the bracket lift. I have maybe 700 miles now on the C-Fab arms with no issues.

I’m kinda regretting not going with the c fab. I had been needing to do the an arms since I got it and kept procrastinating, but wanted to do them before our big thanksgiving ride so when I saw them on sale I just jumped on them. I’ll probably do the same depending on how stiff the ride is or how quickly I have axle issues. But they are already on so I’m just gunna run them and see what happens.

 

[Rossi386]

It has been awhile since I ran factory shocks and control arms. But it does look like the rear is sagging. As the rear is pushed down (incorrect pre load or too much weight) the top (camber position) is pushed in. The rear shocks look like they might be incorrect for the machine.

Also

1000-5 Deluxe rear shocks have "self leveling" after being loaded you need to drive a small bit, maybe a circle and they should "bounce" back up to "normal" ride height.

The ones that are on there don’t have any pre load. I’m assuming it’s either a base model or I got fronts some how. My original 3s had preload on them.

It has been awhile since I ran factory shocks and control arms. But it does look like the rear is sagging. As the rear is pushed down (incorrect pre load or too much weight) the top (camber position) is pushed in. The rear shocks look like they might be incorrect for the machine.

Also

1000-5 Deluxe rear shocks have "self leveling" after being loaded you need to drive a small bit, maybe a circle and they should "bounce" back up to "normal" ride height.

what I’ll probably do is stick with the satv arms do the bracket lift and run it unless the ride is totally unbearable or I’m breaking stuff. At that point I’ll look into rc shocks or something like that.

 

[JenElio]

what I’ll probably do is stick with the satv arms do the bracket lift and run it unless the ride is totally unbearable or I’m breaking stuff. At that point I’ll look into rc shocks or something like that.

I'd steer away from the bracket lift, look into the RC shocks or put some spacers on the stockers and run a bigger tire for now if portals are your end game. Bracket lifts don't play well with these P1Ks.

 

[Robobrainiac]

The ones that are on there don’t have any pre load. I’m assuming it’s either a base model or I got fronts some how. My original 3s had preload on them.

what I’ll probably do is stick with the satv arms do the bracket lift and run it unless the ride is totally unbearable or I’m breaking stuff. At that point I’ll look into rc shocks or something like that.

I really like the C-Fab arms. I have not had any issues with them during use. I had a little annoyance during installation. I will link my review in this post. Overall I like the C-Fab arms. I have the 3" lift built in. I also added fox shocks to my machine with single rate coils. I personally did not notice much of a difference between the bracket lift and no bracket lift while using the factory oe shocks. When I switched to the fox shocks with the bracket lift the ride improved slightly. Then when I ditched the bracket lift and went C-Fab with fox shocks I was Impressed with the improvement.

P1000m5 - My C-Fab Journey and Review

Background: I have a 2020 Honda Pioneer 1000-5 Deluxe. I needed more ground clearance so I installed the highifter lift. The reason for that along with more information can be found in my build thread. https://hondasxs.com/threads/the-robo-build.24804/ I have the VISION UTV BOLT 544 SATIN BLACK...

hondasxs.com

 

[Rossi386]

I'd steer away from the bracket lift, look into the RC shocks or put some spacers on the stockers and run a bigger tire for now if portals are your end game. Bracket lifts don't play well with these P1Ks.

What’s weird is the lift I got from satv is both, I always saw guys running either a bracket or spacers this kit is both.

 

[JenElio]

What’s weird is the lift I got from satv is both, I always saw guys running either a bracket or spacers this kit is both.

I've been running spacers on my stock shocks since new pretty much, gained close to 2" overall. The stock shocks are shîtty compared to other aftermarket brands but it doesn't bother me much. I've gone through 2 or 3 sets of OEM shocks I get or buy cheap off people that take them off to upgrade. If I rode up in the mountains more often I'd upgrade for sure but down here what we ride I'm ok with stocks.

 

[Rossi386]

Sorry it took so long but finally got around to cleaning up my machine and taking a closer look at my shock situation. HL4-AM2 RP is the only number I could get off the rear shock that supposedly was for a 1000-5 the first 3 pics are the rear I got the 4th is my stock front. I can’t even find a shock that matches up to that part number so I’m kinda pissed . Now looking at the front and comparing it to my old rears it’s definitely not right. Unfortunately I bought it from an eBay seller and it’s already been on a few rides so I think I’m sol

 

[Robobrainiac]

Sorry it took so long but finally got around to cleaning up my machine and taking a closer look at my shock situation. HL4-AM2 RP is the only number I could get off the rear shock that supposedly was for a 1000-5 the first 3 pics are the rear I got the 4th is my stock front. I can’t even find a shock that matches up to that part number so I’m kinda pissed . Now looking at the front and comparing it to my old rears it’s definitely not right. Unfortunately I bought it from an eBay seller and it’s already been on a few rides so I think I’m sol



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Someone with more knowledge will post soon but my immediate memory feels like those are too skinny to be proper 1000-5 rear shocks.