2019 Talon 1000X Suspension issue

Montecresto

Montecresto

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Raise the ride height. You’re likely putting the shock into bottom out control. Raise it up about 3/4”-1 1/2” see if that helps you out.
Is that apropos to the non LV only?
 
Killer223

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Is that apropos to the non LV only?
I don't have experience to the live valve. I do know they ride low also. and the shock has very little travel till it's in bottom out control mode.
one way to tell, if it's riding rough, and you look at the lower part of the shock shaft by the bump stop and it's clean, you're gettign full shock travel. if its dirty you are not and you likely need valving or to help offset that adjust the ride height. helps give more travel before the shock in in bottom out control mode.
Inside the shock the piston will move into a cone looking thing that basically hydro locks the shocks. that starts with about 3/4-1" of shock shaft showing before the shock hits the bumpers. Alternatively you can open the shocks up and drill very small hole in the cone to bleed off pressure.
Temp wise you won't see shock fade till you are above 300F. if you can still touch the shock body it's not even close to shock fade.
 
Hometeam

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If I remember correctly the X has 6.5-7 inches (might be off on that) of shock shaft travel. You want to be around 50- 60% for the optimal spot. If your preference is higher or lower that's fine to a degree but to high puts the axel at a degree that isn't as good on its life expectancy. I set my up with a slight down angle in the rear and then put the front at 3/4-1 inch higher and it's been perfect for me.
 
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McCarthy

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Raise the ride height. You’re likely putting the shock into bottom out control. Raise it up about 3/4”-1 1/2” see if that helps you out.

Sorry, I should have clarified, shock temps are off the reservoir, correct?
 
Montecresto

Montecresto

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If I remember correctly the X has 6.5-7 inches (might be off on that) of shock shaft travel. You want to be around 50- 60% for the optimal spot. If your preference is higher or lower that's fine to a degree but to high puts the axel at a degree that isn't as good on its life expectancy. I set my up with a slight down angle in the rear and then put the front at 3/4-1 inch higher and it's been perfect for me.
Do you happen to know if the live valve is adjustable that way...?
 
Montecresto

Montecresto

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I don't have experience to the live valve. I do know they ride low also. and the shock has very little travel till it's in bottom out control mode.
one way to tell, if it's riding rough, and you look at the lower part of the shock shaft by the bump stop and it's clean, you're gettign full shock travel. if its dirty you are not and you likely need valving or to help offset that adjust the ride height. helps give more travel before the shock in in bottom out control mode.
Inside the shock the piston will move into a cone looking thing that basically hydro locks the shocks. that starts with about 3/4-1" of shock shaft showing before the shock hits the bumpers. Alternatively you can open the shocks up and drill very small hole in the cone to bleed off pressure.
Temp wise you won't see shock fade till you are above 300F. if you can still touch the shock body it's not even close to shock fade.
Thank you for the information....😊
 
Hometeam

Hometeam

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Do you happen to know if the live valve is adjustable that way...?
Yes to my understanding to a degree. I do not have a live valve but did talk to the guy that did my suspension about it some. The live valve is just actively (live) changing the valving through computerized inputs constantly. Most of the adjustments I am talking about with the springs are not big changes to that. If you compress them a lot to raise the machines ground clearance than you will be changing the rate it is sitting at and I think that would not ride as good and you would want to have someone that knows what they are doing set you up with new springs. If I had a live valve I would set it up the same way mine is now....
 
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Montecresto

Montecresto

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Yes to my understanding to a degree. I do not have a live valve but did talk to the guy that did my suspension about it some. The live valve is just actively (live) changing the valving through computerized inputs constantly. Most of the adjustments I am talking about with the springs are not big changes to that. If you compress them a lot to raise the machines ground clearance than you will be changing the rate it is sitting at and I think that would not ride as good and you would want to have someone that knows what they are doing set you up with new springs. If I had a live valve I would set it up the same way mine is now....
Thank you sir....😎
 
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Killer223

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Sorry, I should have clarified, shock temps are off the reservoir, correct?
middle of shock body, or top just below the cap. that is where the most heat is generated. a shocks function ito to turn mechanical force into heat. so them getting hot is normal. over about 310 and you have issues. i've only ever seen that high while racing the baja.
 
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M

McCarthy

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middle of shock body, or top just below the cap. that is where the most heat is generated. a shocks function ito to turn mechanical force into heat. so them getting hot is normal. over about 310 and you have issues. i've only ever seen that high while racing the baja.

I measured on the external reservoir. By shock body you're talking about the threaded body, correct?
 
PhilCod

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Sorry, I'm a little late to the party on this post so I'm not sure if my input will have already been covered. I had about 300 miles on my 2020 X2 and blew a rear drivers side shock. I could tell something was wrong because I could hear it banging when I went over bumps. Oddly enough it blew out at the top of the shock, not the bottom where the stock inflation cap was. And I do mean the shock, not the reservoir. It was under warranty, so Honda covered it. But since then I have added the Bandit tender springs and the Schmidity schrader valves with the caps. That has worked great and she now has about 1,500 miles on her.
 
906UP

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It may be a simple as a shock service, the oil in the shocks from the factory is garbage. Getting the shocks serviced with a high quality shock oil can do wonders
 
SLOWPOKE693

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They may be overfilled and hydro lock when they get hot and the oil expands?

Have you tried messing with the adjusters when it's hot to see if anything changes? What settings are you running now F & R?
 
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snuffnwhisky

snuffnwhisky

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The more testing I do and the more I learn the more it confuses me. So I beat the hell out of it today, shock temps really didn't go over 200f. However, after about a half hour it once again would feel "faded" where it would lose any compliance it had, and basically feel like it had no suspension travel as well.

Before leaving I took a bit of preload out of the front, which helped a LOT, but again, only for about the first half hour. After a few hours of riding we took an hour break for a BBQ, and the shocks cooled to ambient temp. For about a half hour, they worked great, then became super stiff and un-compliant again. I was certain this was overheating, but apparently 200f isn't even close. I don't get it.
The oil viscosity lessens when they warm up. You really want to do any shock turning after they have warmed up. My YXZ and KRX are the same way except they feel better/softer after warming up. If it is getting rougher, you may want to add some preload or stiffen the adjustment if you can and see how it does. You might just be bottoming the shock more when it heats up. I haven't ever looked to see if the Talon has bottom out control in the rear shocks but if it does, you don't want your ride height too low or you will be in the BOC stage too soon and often and be really stiff in that zone.
 
snuffnwhisky

snuffnwhisky

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A lot of times you can look at the shock shaft and see where it goes from clean to dirty to see how much travel you are using. You can also put a zip tie on the shaft and see where it compresses to. I've used my Virb camera to record suspension also.
 
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