P1000 2016 pioneer dies when idle

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shaundeere

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Did you read through the whole thread and try the solutions. I just don't feel like reading through 3 pages of stuff. Start with the simple stuff 1st.
Man, sometimes you guys are tough... Of course I read this whole thread considering it is almost a year old. I was hopeful that reviving it might encourage some of those who left it open to chime in with what actually worked for them. My machine is on the battery charger now and I will be checking grounds, plugs, IAC this weekend. I have already checked the injector harnesses.
 
Remington

Remington

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Man, sometimes you guys are tough... Of course I read this whole thread considering it is almost a year old. I was hopeful that reviving it might encourage some of those who left it open to chime in with what actually worked for them. My machine is on the battery charger now and I will be checking grounds, plugs, IAC this weekend. I have already checked the injector harnesses.
That's why we incurage starting a new thread to get more looks for you from othere. Many might see the old fossil thread and say...ehhh and keep scrolling
 
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shaundeere

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My problem ended up being the rear cylinder spark plug. Found it by pulling the plug wires one at a time. Pulling the front caused the engine to quit and the rear caused no change. Pulled both plugs and the only visual difference between them was the bad plugs ceramic around the electrode was very slightly brown where the good one was still white. Two new ones and idle is back to normal and running good again. All grounds were tight, IACV is clean, no water in the fuel.

Changing the plugs was easy taking the seat back, heat shields, and air box off. 7-10mm bolts, 3-clamps, and a bunch of push pins. I used the spark plug socket tool in the factory kit to get the plugs out. If you push it down far enough it will hold the plug and you don’t need a magnet to get them out. NAPA had the best price on the plugs. I hope this helps someone else. Cheers!
 
TripleB

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My problem ended up being the rear cylinder spark plug. Found it by pulling the plug wires one at a time. Pulling the front caused the engine to quit and the rear caused no change. Pulled both plugs and the only visual difference between them was the bad plugs ceramic around the electrode was very slightly brown where the good one was still white. Two new ones and idle is back to normal and running good again. All grounds were tight, IACV is clean, no water in the fuel.

Changing the plugs was easy taking the seat back, heat shields, and air box off. 7-10mm bolts, 3-clamps, and a bunch of push pins. I used the spark plug socket tool in the factory kit to get the plugs out. If you push it down far enough it will hold the plug and you don’t need a magnet to get them out. NAPA had the best price on the plugs. I hope this helps someone else. Cheers!
I've had a new set of plugs on hand for 4 years now. I've just been waiting for a issue lol.
 
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TripleB

TripleB

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My problem ended up being the rear cylinder spark plug. Found it by pulling the plug wires one at a time. Pulling the front caused the engine to quit and the rear caused no change. Pulled both plugs and the only visual difference between them was the bad plugs ceramic around the electrode was very slightly brown where the good one was still white. Two new ones and idle is back to normal and running good again. All grounds were tight, IACV is clean, no water in the fuel.

Changing the plugs was easy taking the seat back, heat shields, and air box off. 7-10mm bolts, 3-clamps, and a bunch of push pins. I used the spark plug socket tool in the factory kit to get the plugs out. If you push it down far enough it will hold the plug and you don’t need a magnet to get them out. NAPA had the best price on the plugs. I hope this helps someone else. Cheers!
I've also been carrying 2 of the injector plugs from the club store for over 2 years. It finally happened this July. Changed both on the trail and finished the ride. I highly recommend carrying at least 1 of those injector plugs in your machine.