P1000 Wiring ideas🤔

Formula1

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So I am trying to plan for future power needs such as a radio, amplifier, etc along with my current winch. I have a dual battery setup with isolator. With a max amperage draw of 330 amps for the winch and 50 amps for an amplifier, how do you safely tap that much power? Would a stinger power distribution block work well? I'm trying to avoid a gob of wires coming off the battery.
 
Russ989

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So I am trying to plan for future power needs such as a radio, amplifier, etc along with my current winch. I have a dual battery setup with isolator. With a max amperage draw of 330 amps for the winch and 50 amps for an amplifier, how do you safely tap that much power? Would a stinger power distribution block work well? I'm trying to avoid a gob of wires coming off the battery.
Add a buss bar for key on power and a fuse block for tapping the power.
 
Formula1

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Unless I'm looking at things wrong, I'd need one rated to at least 400 amps? And I haven't found a fuse block that will accommodate a 50 amp circuit.
 
Pilotadam

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Personally I would run the winch straight to the battery. Winches pull alot of power. Then I would run a second wire of the battery through a stringer or large breaker then feed off that to all your accessories. This should limit 2 positive wires and 2 negative wires.

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Russ989

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Personally I would run the winch straight to the battery. Winches pull alot of power. Then I would run a second wire of the battery through a stringer or large breaker then feed off that to all your accessories. This should limit 2 positive wires and 2 negative wires.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Definitely take the winch to the battery.
 
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Pilotadam

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I have a full size battery under the driver seat and mounted these under the hood to connect wires to. Help to clean things up. I used 5/16 or 3/8 not the 1/4 pictured. 8a23c177392c3cfb47c3b6ab483ab829

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Russ989

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Cuoutdoors

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I have a blue sea systems fuse block and the winch run straight to battery on a (I think) 300amp breaker. It's one @ohanacreek recommended to me and it has worked well. Its saved me a few times.
 
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I have a blue sea systems fuse block and the winch run straight to battery on a (I think) 300amp breaker. It's one @ohanacreek recommended to me and it has worked well. Its saved me a few times.

I’ve had this on 700 and 1000, don’t spray them with pressure washer.

It will trip at full pull in first layer after a few seconds of pulling but I have it mounted where I can reach it from drivers seat

 
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Haldog77

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If I understand your dilemma, your winch will be run through a relay, the power lines that supply the winch come from the spare or aux. battery. this will negate the need for a 350-400 amp fuse. All of the other power needs can come from a second fuse block like the ones shown above.
 
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Formula1

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Thanks for the replies everyone. What I was hoping for was to run one wire from the battery to a splitter then run one to the winch solenoid and the other to a fuse box. Im just trying to limit the amount of wires I have coming off the battery.

On another note I think I am going to go with a XL1200 sound bar mounted in the rear with a remote mounted on the dash. I am trying to find out the hole size for the remote then I will order a switch panel. Didn't I read about people on here making them?
 
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Thanks for the replies everyone. What I was hoping for was to run one wire from the battery to a splitter then run one to the winch solenoid and the other to a fuse box. Im just trying to limit the amount of wires I have coming off the battery.

On another note I think I am going to go with a XL1200 sound bar mounted in the rear with a remote mounted on the dash. I am trying to find out the hole size for the remote then I will order a switch panel. Didn't I read about people on here making them?
@mystic1219 makes a nice panel.
 
Formula1

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I figured out my plan. I ordered a stinger and Blue Sea fuse block a few days ago. I am going with an XL1200 sound bar and I will power that off the stinger as well as the fuse block. I've got the key on power harness installed so once everything arrives it should be fairly clean. I have a BUSS bar for the grounds as well. I also have 2-Attwood 4" fans to hopefully deal with heat issues that I will wire to a switch. I am debating if I should put the stinger key on wire on a switch so I can turn everything off for whatever reason?

For those that have a USB charger installed, are you running it on its own dedicated circuit or just tapped off the 12v plug? I was thinking of just running its own circuit with a low amp fuse.
 
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I figured out my plan. I ordered a stinger and Blue Sea fuse block a few days ago. I am going with an XL1200 sound bar and I will power that off the stinger as well as the fuse block. I've got the key on power harness installed so once everything arrives it should be fairly clean. I have a BUSS bar for the grounds as well. I also have 2-Attwood 4" fans to hopefully deal with heat issues that I will wire to a switch. I am debating if I should put the stinger key on wire on a switch so I can turn everything off for whatever reason?

For those that have a USB charger installed, are you running it on its own dedicated circuit or just tapped off the 12v plug? I was thinking of just running its own circuit with a low amp fuse.
I have my USB on its on fuse.
 
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