Used Skid Steer Advice

Robobrainiac

Robobrainiac

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I am looking to hear from others what they would recommend to look for in a used skid steer. I have never owned one or operated one. I would like to have enough capacity for a lift of at least 2500lbs @50% tip. I would like to keep the machine around 7000lbs. I would like aux hydraulic options. I will be using it to lift heavy things and clear trees/brush. I want a tracked machine.

I am actively looking for a used skid steer. I hope to stay below $30k. I cannot do anything until our taxes are done and HELOC is complete. I will most likely not pull the trigger on anything for a couple months.
 
Vikes79

Vikes79

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Bigger isn’t always better when it comes to skid loaders ..

2500 lbs at 50% is a pretty good sized machine. That’s nearly front end tractor loader land. You need a good sized trailer and truck to move it too.

My Gehl skid loader weighs around 5000 lbs and has low flow auxiliary hydraulics. I have a 50” brush cutter, brush grapple, post hole digger, post puller and bucket for it. I think the bucket capacity is about 2000 lbs down low.

It’s 35 hp yanmar diesel and the brush cutter makes it work hard…but it does the job. I can pull 6” diameter pine trees out of the ground with it. Others with tap roots probably a max of 4”.

I’ve done a crap ton of tree clearing with it. It’s light enough to use a normal car trailer, but powerful enough to run a brush cutter.

These days your probably every bit of 20k for a good low hours machine and probably the same for attachments.


IMG 7846
IMG 7847
IMG 7848
 
The Green Goat

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I used to work on them about 16 years ago when I worked for my stepfather's equipment rental. Tracked machines were just starting to be a thing back then so I don't have a ton of experience.

What I can tell you is to be mindful of the undercarriage. Check tracks for wear, drive sprockets, bogies, and hydraulic drive motors. A full undercarriage refresh is pricey.

Check bushings for wear. Bushings aren't terribly expensive, but if they're worn out and eating into whatever they're protecting, that can get expensive.

Watch for hydraulic leaks in general. A leaky hose isn't usually a big deal, but a cylinder rebuild might be. Also pay attention to cylinder drift; could indicate a rebuild is needed.

I'd probably also check the oil pan and hydraulic tank for any metal shavings. If you find any, steer clear.

Pay attention to hydraulic flow numbers for the attachments you want vs what your machine is capable of. Make sure that the accessory hydros are high flow.

That's all I can think of off the top of my head.
 
D

dweber23tr

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2500 lb lift is actually a pretty big machine, for a tracked model it may be tough to find a later model used one for that price that doesn't have a million hours on it. As noted tracks, while they are definitely nice when it's wet and you will have way more traction for pushing/pulling. But if brush cutter is on your list, busting brush will tear up the tracks pretty good over time. A new set of tracks will be in the several thousand $$ range. You may want to consider a wheeled model and get over the tire tracks you can take on/off. Also most newer machines are electric over hydraulic controls. I personally do not like those, I prefer to feel the feedback on the controls with old school direct hydraulic valves. With the electronics there is also more to go wrong.

I have a mustang 2054, 49 hp. 1650 lb lift. I have over the tires rubber tracks for it, but I never use them anymore. The ride was way rougher with the tracks on but when the ground is soft they do keep the machine from getting stuck better. I use it for moving and hauling wood mostly and some snow plowing.
 
Smitty335

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2500 lb lift is actually a pretty big machine, for a tracked model it may be tough to find a later model used one for that price that doesn't have a million hours on it. As noted tracks, while they are definitely nice when it's wet and you will have way more traction for pushing/pulling. But if brush cutter is on your list, busting brush will tear up the tracks pretty good over time. A new set of tracks will be in the several thousand $$ range. You may want to consider a wheeled model and get over the tire tracks you can take on/off. Also most newer machines are electric over hydraulic controls. I personally do not like those, I prefer to feel the feedback on the controls with old school direct hydraulic valves. With the electronics there is also more to go wrong.

I have a mustang 2054, 49 hp. 1650 lb lift. I have over the tires rubber tracks for it, but I never use them anymore. The ride was way rougher with the tracks on but when the ground is soft they do keep the machine from getting stuck better. I use it for moving and hauling wood mostly and some snow plowing.
If you do a lot of turning tracks make a mess.
 
WagginTail

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I used to work on them about 16 years ago when I worked for my stepfather's equipment rental. Tracked machines were just starting to be a thing back then so I don't have a ton of experience.

What I can tell you is to be mindful of the undercarriage. Check tracks for wear, drive sprockets, bogies, and hydraulic drive motors. A full undercarriage refresh is pricey.

Check bushings for wear. Bushings aren't terribly expensive, but if they're worn out and eating into whatever they're protecting, that can get expensive.

Watch for hydraulic leaks in general. A leaky hose isn't usually a big deal, but a cylinder rebuild might be. Also pay attention to cylinder drift; could indicate a rebuild is needed.

I'd probably also check the oil pan and hydraulic tank for any metal shavings. If you find any, steer clear.

Pay attention to hydraulic flow numbers for the attachments you want vs what your machine is capable of. Make sure that the accessory hydros are high flow.

That's all I can think of off the top of my head.
One thing I always check with anything I purchase is the air filter, air filter housing and the hose going from the housing to the engine. Pull the filter out and check for dirt behind it. Also check for cracks in the housing and hose. Years ago when i was a teenager my grandad's old Gehl skidsteer grenaded cause the hose off the back of the air filter housing had a hole in it. Lesson learned and from then on I always check for that.
 
WagginTail

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Bigger isn’t always better when it comes to skid loaders ..

2500 lbs at 50% is a pretty good sized machine. That’s nearly front end tractor loader land. You need a good sized trailer and truck to move it too.

My Gehl skid loader weighs around 5000 lbs and has low flow auxiliary hydraulics. I have a 50” brush cutter, brush grapple, post hole digger, post puller and bucket for it. I think the bucket capacity is about 2000 lbs down low.

It’s 35 hp yanmar diesel and the brush cutter makes it work hard…but it does the job. I can pull 6” diameter pine trees out of the ground with it. Others with tap roots probably a max of 4”.

I’ve done a crap ton of tree clearing with it. It’s light enough to use a normal car trailer, but powerful enough to run a brush cutter.

These days your probably every bit of 20k for a good low hours machine and probably the same for attachments.


View attachment 466437View attachment 466438View attachment 466439
Nice machine. My granddads old Gehl was around that size. I hated operating it with the old T handle controls. They would wear my arms out running it all day.
 
Vikes79

Vikes79

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Nice machine. My granddads old Gehl was around that size. I hated operating it with the old T handle controls. They would wear my arms out running it all day.
This one has foot controls. I’ve had to put a ton of time into replacing hoses and electrical gremlins. They aren’t that popular of machines but they are made in South Dakota and Wisconsin, and are tough machines for the dollar.
 
Vikes79

Vikes79

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Bigger isn’t always better when it comes to skid loaders ..

2500 lbs at 50% is a pretty good sized machine. That’s nearly front end tractor loader land. You need a good sized trailer and truck to move it too.

My Gehl skid loader weighs around 5000 lbs and has low flow auxiliary hydraulics. I have a 50” brush cutter, brush grapple, post hole digger, post puller and bucket for it. I think the bucket capacity is about 2000 lbs down low.

It’s 35 hp yanmar diesel and the brush cutter makes it work hard…but it does the job. I can pull 6” diameter pine trees out of the ground with it. Others with tap roots probably a max of 4”.

I’ve done a crap ton of tree clearing with it. It’s light enough to use a normal car trailer, but powerful enough to run a brush cutter.

These days your probably every bit of 20k for a good low hours machine and probably the same for attachments.


View attachment 466437View attachment 466438View attachment 466439
Here’s a link to another thread showing some details on my cutter.

Post in thread 'Tractors & SxS = Workhorses'
Multi - Tractors & SxS = Workhorses