P1000 Texas Tough 3" lift - do I need spacers?

[DawgU]

Getting Texas Tough 3" lift. If using 4:3 wheels, do I need spacers in the rear to make it track correctly if using 30/10/14 tires all the way around?

 

[Admin]

 

[JenElio]

Getting Texas Tough 3" lift. If using 4:3 wheels, do I need spacers in the rear to make it track correctly if using 30/10/14 tires all the way around?

I would think so, yes. Probably something like a 1" or 1.5"........ But I'm not too familiar with the TTC stuff.
@Ericseabaugh just got some TTC stuff maybe he'll chime in. I think @P1K5Dave might also have the TTC set up.....???

 

[P1K5Dave]

By "track correctly" do you mean equal width front to rear? If so, the TTC kit has no effect on that, your width across hubs stays the same.

That said, I have the TTC 3" and I had the RB3 Super-Wide package of spacers on it at first. It had 2" spacers in the rear and 1.5" in the front. Over time, I took the 1.5" out of the front and still have the 2" in the rear.

My machine had 4:3s and 30's on it when I got it. I measured 65.5" across the front and 63" across the rear. Spacing as listed above put me at 67" in the rear and 68.5" in the front, which wasn't very good. I was getting a lot of rubbing on the Bad Dawg bumper because it sits kind of low out front. I've also had a b**** of a time wearing out the upper ball joints TTC provided, so I took out the front spacers.

I haven't recorded a measurement, but by the math I should be at 65.5" in the front and 67" in the rear. It works for me - I always thought the rear wheels of the P1000 looked too narrow.

 

[P1K5Dave]

I think you already said you got the ball joint upgrade with your kit, right @DawgU ? That's a good move...

 

[Ericseabaugh]

I would think so, yes. Probably something like a 1" or 1.5"........ But I'm not too familiar with the TTC stuff.
@Ericseabaugh just got some TTC stuff maybe he'll chime in. I think @P1K5Dave might also have the TTC set up.....???

I did the 6" long arm kit running 30x10x14 Kenda Klever tires which are a true 30" on ITP Hurricane wheels. When I got the arms installed a couple weeks ago I was rubbing the back side of the front arms on the inside of the tires. I called Jared @TexasToughCustoms to see what was going on and man I can't say enough good about his customer service, that dude is awesome. My ITP wheels are 5+2 offset so he suggested that I put 1" spacers in. Ordered a set of 4 from HighLifter and problem solved. Only problem I have had is the Rhino 2.0 axle boots. Drove it less than 20 miles and the right front boot at the knuckle was slinging grease everywhere. Now less than 150 miles and the left front is doing the same thing. Can't complain about SuperATV though they sent me a new complete axle for the right side and called today and I have a complete axle for the driver side on the way. They need to change to a different boot though because the ones they are using currently are junk.

 

[DawgU]

I think you already said you got the ball joint upgrade with your kit, right @DawgU ? That's a good move...

Yes - thanks to reading your thread before I ordered!!!

 

[DawgU]

I did the 6" long arm kit running 30x10x14 Kenda Klever tires which are a true 30" on ITP Hurricane wheels. When I got the arms installed a couple weeks ago I was rubbing the back side of the front arms on the inside of the tires. I called Jared @TexasToughCustoms to see what was going on and man I can't say enough good about his customer service, that dude is awesome. My ITP wheels are 5+2 offset so he suggested that I put 1" spacers in. Ordered a set of 4 from HighLifter and problem solved. Only problem I have had is the Rhino 2.0 axle boots. Drove it less than 20 miles and the right front boot at the knuckle was slinging grease everywhere. Now less than 150 miles and the left front is doing the same thing. Can't complain about SuperATV though they sent me a new complete axle for the right side and called today and I have a complete axle for the driver side on the way. They need to change to a different boot though because the ones they are using currently are junk.

Arrrgh! I ordered the Rhino's. Was trying to eliminate problems - not have to deal with them

 

[DawgU]

By "track correctly" do you mean equal width front to rear? If so, the TTC kit has no effect on that, your width across hubs stays the same.

That said, I have the TTC 3" and I had the RB3 Super-Wide package of spacers on it at first. It had 2" spacers in the rear and 1.5" in the front. Over time, I took the 1.5" out of the front and still have the 2" in the rear.

My machine had 4:3s and 30's on it when I got it. I measured 65.5" across the front and 63" across the rear. Spacing as listed above put me at 67" in the rear and 68.5" in the front, which wasn't very good. I was getting a lot of rubbing on the Bad Dawg bumper because it sits kind of low out front. I've also had a b**** of a time wearing out the upper ball joints TTC provided, so I took out the front spacers.

I haven't recorded a measurement, but by the math I should be at 65.5" in the front and 67" in the rear. It works for me - I always thought the rear wheels of the P1000 looked too narrow.

Yes I mean equal width front and rear. Stock rear tires are wider, but I think outside to outside, the front and rears are the same. Won't going to the same size tire all around change that? I just don't want the rear's to look narrower than the fronts......(actually like the look of wider tires in the rears, but I want to be able to rotate

 

[Ericseabaugh]

Arrrgh! I ordered the Rhino's. Was trying to eliminate problems - not have to deal with them

You'll be alright. The axles themselves are great, the only problem is the junk boots they are putting on them. They are a thermoplastic elastomer or some crap. They just don't have anywhere near enough flexibility for the task at hand. I talked with Jared at TTC yesterday figuring that surely someone had found a decent replacement boot to use instead of what's on them because he had told me that a ton of people have been having this problem here lately. He just had another customer with a shop that told him about a boot he has been putting on them. The company who makes the boot is Astoria 2000. You can find them at astoria2000.net He said they are a good quality, nice and flexible rubber boot. I am going to give them a try. Just have to get home first so I can see how many mm the cv joint end of the boot needs to be.

 

[DawgU]

You'll be alright. The axles themselves are great, the only problem is the junk boots they are putting on them. They are a thermoplastic elastomer or some crap. They just don't have anywhere near enough flexibility for the task at hand. I talked with Jared at TTC yesterday figuring that surely someone had found a decent replacement boot to use instead of what's on them because he had told me that a ton of people have been having this problem here lately. He just had another customer with a shop that told him about a boot he has been putting on them. The company who makes the boot is Astoria 2000. You can find them at astoria2000.net He said they are a good quality, nice and flexible rubber boot. I am going to give them a try. Just have to get home first so I can see how many mm the cv joint end of the boot needs to be.

Thanks!!! When you get the measurements will you let me know? I will order before I install. Appreciate the help!

 

[DawgU]

You'll be alright. The axles themselves are great, the only problem is the junk boots they are putting on them. They are a thermoplastic elastomer or some crap. They just don't have anywhere near enough flexibility for the task at hand. I talked with Jared at TTC yesterday figuring that surely someone had found a decent replacement boot to use instead of what's on them because he had told me that a ton of people have been having this problem here lately. He just had another customer with a shop that told him about a boot he has been putting on them. The company who makes the boot is Astoria 2000. You can find them at astoria2000.net He said they are a good quality, nice and flexible rubber boot. I am going to give them a try. Just have to get home first so I can see how many mm the cv joint end of the boot needs to be.

were you able to measure the cv boots?

 

[Ericseabaugh]

were you able to measure the cv boots?

I'm sorry I took so long getting back to you. I have had a ton of crap going on. But yes I did measure and they are like 26mm shaft and somewhere around 85mm at the cv joint. So I would order the FB3002.

 

[DawgU]

I'm sorry I took so long getting back to you. I have had a ton of crap going on. But yes I did measure and they are like 26mm shaft and somewhere around 85mm at the cv joint. So I would order the FB3002.

Thank you!!!

 

[MattyIce]

Would love to see the install when you get it done. I'm considering buying the 3" Texas Tough Lift for my 1000-6. I'm wanting to run a 32" tire.

 

[DawgU]

Will do. I went with 30” tires based on feedback here - without portals 32’s put a lot of stress on clutches