J
I run Lucas full synthetic 20w-50 in the sub trans and have had 0 issues shifting the sub trans into low or any other gear. I also use the Mobil 1 4t in the engine/trans. Don't forget to perform the clutch relearn procedure every 1000 miles, keeps the shifts nice and quick.
The clutches are not in the subtrans, they are on the engine side of things. Oil selection in the subtrans has no effect on the clutches.just remember when it fails a relearn it means the clutch is shot lol found out the hard way
Skip that and go straight to Redline Lightweight Shockproof synthetic oil. Your subtrans will thank you.
Worked for me.Anyone try this? If so, did it work like the guy says?
I use lightweight in the subtrans and heavyweight in the diffs.
If you read the description for each product on the Redline site it gives you equivalent weights for each.
I'm a bit confused, everything I read in the manual and on Redline's website and such indicate the sub trans is supposed to have 10w30 in it, not gear oil- Is the redline gear oil thing a "proven" fix for the sub trans issues, or are you just trying it out to see? Thanks!
I use my Talon strictly for short course racing in Texas. 10w30 motor oil is water on a summer day BEFORE I even run it and the subtrans is a known weak link. Having extra protection with a thicker fluid is key to its longevity in my opinion.Can I ask why you gentlemen want to change fluids?
I thought it failed because it wasn't warm enough. Keep Revving it!just remember when it fails a relearn it means the clutch is shot lol found out the hard way
I use my Talon strictly for short course racing in Texas. 10w30 motor oil is water on a summer day BEFORE I even run it and the subtrans is a known weak link. Having extra protection with a thicker fluid is key to its longevity in my opinion.
I also run Heavyweight Shockproof in the diffs even though a thinner oil is specified in the manual.
Can I ask why you gentlemen want to change fluids?