P1000 Sound dampening

[panaman]

Curious if anyone has ever done anything like this to the roof. I think it will help with the noise. FYI this is the tusk aluminum roof but I don’t think it would matter what roof it is installed on.

 

[Admin]

 

[JenElio]

Curious if anyone has ever done anything lol ke this to the roof. I think it will help with the noise

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I think I read somewhere on here where someone had (glued?) some kind of carpet to the under side of the OEM roof and it helped a bit. Can't remember who or what thread it was in though.....good luck. Keep us posted on results if ya try it out 👍

 

[Lady01]

Curious if anyone has ever done anything lol ke this to the roof. I think it will help with the noise

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This is a good idea, it will reduce noise bounce, heat/sunload reduction, and insulation from the cold. However, I went a different way using tractor interior material... Tractor Interior Upholstery LLC | Cab Kits | Tractor Headliners | Post Covers | Acoustical Foam I purchased the bulk material bulk cab foam: Bulk Cab Foam-3/4 Inch, watch the videos, they are very helpful AND the most important item is to use their spray adhesive, its just the best... don't waist time with other adhesives on the market: Spray Adhesive

I have looked high and low and found tractor interiors to be the thing needed most, it works for sound, insulation against heat and cold, and the adhesive is (from what I tried so far) the best on the market. All of this comes with a very descent price, give them a call, they are very helpful!

 

[HBarlow]

I've spent a good bit of time on this subject. I wanted to glue foam padding to the underside of my roof and discussed it with a local auto upholsterer. He was willing to do it for me but warned that if the buggy was in the hot sun for long periods the glue usually melted and the foam padding would fall.

Thinking about the warning from the upholsterer and the weight of thick foam insulation I found a less expensive product similar to Dynamat which is sheets of sandwiched insulation with self-adhesive and installed it on the underside of my Honda roof. It reduces reflected noise and overall noise level in the cab but my cab is still noisier than I want. I bought two cans of the spray adhesive shown above and plan to use it on the rear wall of the cab with the seat back removed for access.

I also cut and fit the self-adhesive insulation to the entire cab floor under the Honda floor mat and around the seat base.

Here's a summary of what I have done so far and my thoughts on results:

My Tensor Regulator tires significantly reduced, almost eliminated , tire noise in the cab.

Lining the roof, floor, and seat base with self-adhering insulation panels has reduced, almost eliminated engine sounds in the cab.

What I hear now is gear noise from the sub-transmission and transmission (DCT).

My plan was to remove the seat back and glue thick foam or rubber insulation to the back wall of the cab

My reading and close-up vision is poor now in my old age so I try to avoid doing the millions of small and large "do-it-myself) projects I've done all my life.

I bought a big roll of 3/8" rubber insulation and two cans of the spray adhesive suggested by Lady01 above. My occasional yardman/handyman couldn't figure out how to remove the seat back so when I took my buggy to the dealer for the overdue 1800 mile service and a couple other chores I asked the service department to remove the seat back and cut and glue the rolled rubber sheet to the back wall of the cab.

They have done lots of accessory installation and are usually very helpful but this time the service manager refused. He had several real or imagined concerns and I was unable to persuade him. He apparently doesn't spend any time driving one of the noisy buggies and doesn't share my desire to reduce the noise level.

As an alternate plan I've asked the service writer to remove the seat back before I go to pick it up later this week. When I get the buggy back home I'll get my handyman to help and we'll cut the rubber into panels to fit the cab back. Several people have warned me that the adhesive will fail so I plan to wipe the cab wall down several times with paint thinner, spray the Lady01 adhesive on the cab wall, and carefully fit the rubber panels to the cab. I have several heavy duty hand held rollers to carefully roll the rubber tightly against the cab to ensure the adhesive adheres to the rubber sheets.

I'm not an acoustical engineer but from experience I know that if the rubber sheet is glued to the cab wall it will eliminate the rattle and "oil-canning" noise created by the engine and gear train.

I'll report the results when it's done.

If all this expense, effort, and frustration doesn't silence the cab I guess ear muffs is the only solution.

 

[Lady01]

I've spent a good bit of time on this subject. I wanted to glue foam padding to the underside of my roof and discussed it with a local auto upholsterer. He was willing to do it for me but warned that if the buggy was in the hot sun for long periods the glue usually melted and the foam padding would fall.

Thinking about the warning from the upholsterer and the weight of thick foam insulation I found a less expensive product similar to Dynamat which is sheets of sandwiched insulation with self-adhesive and installed it on the underside of my Honda roof. It reduces reflected noise and overall noise level in the cab but my cab is still noisier than I want. I bought two cans of the spray adhesive shown above and plan to use it on the rear wall of the cab with the seat back removed for access.

I also cut and fit the self-adhesive insulation to the entire cab floor under the Honda floor mat and around the seat base.


Here's a summary of what I have done so far and my thoughts on results:

My Tensor Regulator tires significantly reduced, almost eliminated , tire noise in the cab.

Lining the roof, floor, and seat base with self-adhering insulation panels has reduced, almost eliminated engine sounds in the cab.

What I hear now is gear noise from the sub-transmission and transmission (DCT).

My plan was to remove the seat back and glue thick foam or rubber insulation to the back wall of the cab

My reading and close-up vision is poor now in my old age so I try to avoid doing the millions of small and large "do-it-myself) projects I've done all my life.

I bought a big roll of 3/8" rubber insulation and two cans of the spray adhesive suggested by Lady01 above. My occasional yardman/handyman couldn't figure out how to remove the seat back so when I took my buggy to the dealer for the overdue 1800 mile service and a couple other chores I asked the service department to remove the seat back and cut and glue the rolled rubber sheet to the back wall of the cab.

They have done lots of accessory installation and are usually very helpful but this time the service manager refused He had several real or imagined concerns and I was unable to persuade him. He apparently doesn't spend any time driving one of the noisy buggies and doesn't share my desire to reduce the noise level.

As an alternate plan I've asked the service writer to remove the seat back before I go to pick it up later this week. When I get the buggy back home I'll get my handyman to help and we'll cut the rubber into panels to fit the cab back. Several people have warned me that the adhesive will fail so I plan to wipe the cab wall down several times with paint thinner, spray the Lady01 adhesive on the cab wall, and carefully fit the rubber panels to the cab. I have several heavy duty hand held rollers to carefully roll the rubber tightly against the cab to ensure the adhesive adheres to the rubber sheets.

I'm not an acoustical engineer but from experience I know that if the rubber sheet is glued to the cab wall it will eliminate the rattle and "oil-canning" noise created by the engine and gear train.

I'll report the results when it's done.

If all this expense, effort, and frustration doesn't silence the cab I guess ear muffs is the only solution.

Nice work! I agree making sure everything is cleaned, and honestly PG107 adhesive is the best I have found, I am sure there are other adhesives available that I may not be aware of (however, its been my experience that the adhesives found in most auto/building supply stores are not hardy enough to hold up to the blasting summer heat and below 0 temps) but PG107 has really worked well. I too have (tractor interior and tractor flooring) insulated/lined my P1K3 (hard back/roof/seat pedestal/floor) and the heat, noise and the instense temps are negligable, not gone but drastically reduced!

 

[panaman]

I will let everyone know how it holds up. It was rather cheap so if it falls off no harm no foul

 

[HBarlow]

Nice work! I agree making sure everything is cleaned, and honestly PG107 adhesive is the best I have found, I am sure there are other adhesives available that I may not be aware of (however, its been my experience that the adhesives found in most auto/building supply stores are not hardy enough to hold up to the blasting summer heat and below 0 temps) but PG107 has really worked well. I too have (tractor interior and tractor flooring) insulated/lined my P1K3 (hard back/roof/seat pedestal/floor) and the heat, noise and the instense temps are negligable, not gone but drastically reduced!

Lady01,

I learned about the spray adhesive from the link you pm'd me but I missed the insulation material you linked in this post. I should have bought the material you mention but I've already got the material now and will try using it.

 

[crewcabrob]

I'm really curious about this. Thank you for posting up what you are doing for noise mitigation. I'm working through the same issues on my P520. Once the top and windshield were added, it got noisy fast.

Rob

 

[HBarlow]

Someone could create a lucrative sideline business if he/she had the capability to purchase and cut panels to fit the roof, floor, under seat area, and, back wall of the cab for the various Honda 1000, 700, and 520/500, Can-Am, and Polaris models.

I would have cheerfully handed over my credit card to purchase a kit to fit.

 

[CID]

Earmuffs hang around my neck easy enough when not needed but are easy to talk through.


Ear plugs when helmeted, also easy enough to talk through. Ear plugs need to be pushed into the ear canal or they aren't very effective.

 

[HBarlow]

I can't disagree with earmuffs. I've been using them for every ride. Earmuffs are, without question, the cheapest and easiest solution to the problem but a quieter cab sure would be nice.

 

[trigger]

Someone could create a lucrative sideline business if he/she had the capability to purchase and cut panels to fit the roof, floor, under seat area, and, back wall of the cab for the various Honda 1000, 700, and 520/500, Can-Am, and Polaris models.

I would have cheerfully handed over my credit card to purchase a kit to fit.

🤦‍♂️ Someone has for all those machines. Anything for the underside of the roof would require adhesive and puts a lot of responsibility on the installer. If they're willing to go through that mess, cutting a panel would be the easy part.

 

[HBarlow]

🤦‍♂️ Someone has for all those machines. Anything for the underside of the roof would require adhesive and puts a lot of responsibility on the installer. If they're willing to go through that mess, cutting a panel would be the easy part.

Who? Where?

 

[CID]

Who? Where?

Here ya go, Mr. Barlow -

Multi - For Sale: Noise/Dust/Heat Shield

If you're reading this post then you're probably looking for a solution to the cab noise and heat issue that all sxs's suffer from. Most just accept it as part of the riding experience and a certain amount is to be expected. Then you take the wife or kids along with you and they are far less...

hondasxs.com

 

[trigger]

Who? Where?

Been telling you about it in another thread for days. www.quickshieldutv.com
Don't make one for the floor as that wouldn't accomplish anything other than being a floor mat, Honda already offers those.

 

[HBarlow]

This is automotive sound insulation:

Tractor Interior Upholstery LLC | Cab Kits | Tractor Headliners | Post Covers | Acoustical Foam

Get high quality cab interior kits and replacement cab interiors from Tractor Interiors Upholstery LLC.

www.tractorinteriors.com

and this:

Automotive Soundproofing & Heat Control | Dynamat

The most recognized brand in automotive soundproofing and heat control in the world. Learn more about reducing unwanted noise and vibration.

www.dynamat.com

There are others as well.

If Dynamat or the Iowa company making insulation kits for John Deere and other tractor made a kit for Pioneer 1000s I would be first in line to buy one.

 

[trigger]

This is automotive sound insulation:

Tractor Interior Upholstery LLC | Cab Kits | Tractor Headliners | Post Covers | Acoustical Foam

Get high quality cab interior kits and replacement cab interiors from Tractor Interiors Upholstery LLC.

www.tractorinteriors.com

and this:

Automotive Soundproofing & Heat Control | Dynamat

The most recognized brand in automotive soundproofing and heat control in the world. Learn more about reducing unwanted noise and vibration.

www.dynamat.com

There are others as well.

If Dynamat or the Iowa company making insulation kits for John Deere and other tractor made a kit for Pioneer 1000s I would be first in line to buy one.

One is upholstery and the other is meant to be concealed... I tried.

 

[Lady01]

One is upholstery and the other is meant to be concealed... I tried.

Nice, the tractor interior is NOT merely upholstery, it is insulated dense foam designed for heavy equipment/farm tractors, with a nice fairly atractive surface layer; it is used to reduce outside noise as well as internal cab reverbration AND insulation from the heat(sun)/cold. I have had mine installed using their adhesive in negative degree michigan weather, michigan summer sun (and once an excersion to sunny Cantonment (Pensacola area) Florida going on three years now, it's glued to the Honda hard roof, Honda hard rear wall (2019 P1k-3) the seat pedestal and I've used their flooring on the floorboard. Honestly works really well.

 

[Ohio4x4]

Sorry, that's not what I'm looking for.

It does make a huge difference. Even my homemade version gave me the biggest gain in noise and heat reduction. Everything else was a waste of time and materials. Most of my noise came from below the seat. I wasn't trying to stop the noise so much as the heat but found they go hand in hand.

 

[panaman]

I drove around some back roads yesterday about 20 miles. Definitely cuts down on the echo noise a lot