P1000 Second battery ground

[BillChestnutt]

I’m looking for information on where the ground cable is connect on a 2016 P 1000. I’m adding a second battery and would like to attach it in the same spot so if problems arise, I only have one ground location to check.

 

[Admin]

 

[Hillbillytnt]

I’m looking for information on where the ground cable is connect on a 2016 P 1000. I’m adding a second battery and would like to attach it in the same spot so if problems arise, I only have one ground location to check.

I just used the factory second ground. The blue taped wire. It’s intended for a winch but it will reach and that’s where my winch goes anyway

 

[TripleB]

I just used the factory second ground. The blue taped wire. It’s intended for a winch but it will reach and that’s where my winch goes anyway

The 2016 models didn't have the 2nd ground wire pre installed.

 

[BobSmithing]

Consider connecting a bus bar to the first battery then use that as the common ground point. The bus bar could be a part of a fuse block or independent of it.

 

[Remington]

I just drilled and scraped away a spot on the frame cross member under the hood and installed a post/bolt close to where my secondary battery is located on my 16’

 

[BillChestnutt]

Thanks for all the help. I drilled a hole above and to the left of the spare battery compartment. Mounted a bolt and jam nut to the frame to secure my second battery ground with plenty of threaded stud to mount a few ground cables if necessary.

 

[BillChestnutt]

The voodoo magic begins. I have been trying to install a second battery using a youtube video by Robert Sparre. I have check everything more than once and can’t solve a couple problems I’m having. I haven’t purchased the second battery yet but when I start my pioneer, I get a reading on both volt meters( How’s that happening) The other thing I noticed has to do with the Stinger Relay. Small red wire run to it for ”Key on power” Small black wire running to “ Negative buss bar”. From one large terminal a 6 gauge wire running to Fuse box and from the other large terminal a 6 gauge wire runs to the positive buss bar. When I touch the fuse box terminal with one end of my test light and the other end touches the positive buss bar I get power to the fuse box but I don’t know where the power is coming from. Electrical stuff has always been VooDoo magic to me. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated

 

[TripleB]

The voodoo magic begins. I have been trying to install a second battery using a youtube video by Robert Sparre. I have check everything more than once and can’t solve a couple problems I’m having. I haven’t purchased the second battery yet but when I start my pioneer, I get a reading on both volt meters( How’s that happening) The other thing I noticed has to do with the Stinger Relay. Small red wire run to it for ”Key on power” Small black wire running to “ Negative buss bar”. From one large terminal a 6 gauge wire running to Fuse box and from the other large terminal a 6 gauge wire runs to the positive buss bar. When I touch the fuse box terminal with one end of my test light and the other end touches the positive buss bar I get power to the fuse box but I don’t know where the power is coming from. Electrical stuff has always been VooDoo magic to me. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated

When the isolators blue light comes on, power from the main battery is traveling through the isolator. That's why both volt meters are reading. I don't completely understand the second part of your question.

 

[BillChestnutt]

When the isolators blue light comes on, power from the main battery is traveling through the isolator. That's why both volt meters are reading. I don't completely understand the second part of your question.

How is the second volt meter reading anything if there’s no second battery yet. Shouldn’t the isolator keep the batteries separate when I eventually get my second battery??

 

[TripleB]

How is the second volt meter reading anything if there’s no second battery yet. Shouldn’t the isolator keep the batteries separate when I eventually get my second battery??

When the blue light is on, both batteries will be tied together. So the 2nd post on the isolator where you 2nd volt meter is hooked, will be hot. That's how the 2nd battery gets charged. When the main battery gets below a certain voltage, the blue light goes off and the batteries are isolated. The main battery gets all the charge until it get back up to that set voltage point. At least that's how I think it works. Turn on your key and then your lights. Watch until the blue goes out. 2nd volt meter should be dead unless you have a bad isolator or u hooked something up wrong.

 

[BillChestnutt]

When the blue light is on, both batteries will be tied together. So the 2nd post on the isolator where you 2nd volt meter is hooked, will be hot. That's how the 2nd battery gets charged. When the main battery gets below a certain voltage, the blue light goes off and the batteries are isolated. The main battery gets all the charge until it get back up to that set voltage point. At least that's how I think it works. Turn on your key and then your lights. Watch until the blue goes out. 2nd volt meter should be dead unless you have a bad isolator or u hooked something up wrong.

Thanks for the instructions. I’m starting to get a better understanding of it now. I was thinking that it was reading the battery voltage but it really reads what the charge is going to the battery. ( I hope that’s correct!) 🤪

 

[MC_Crowbar]

The other thing I noticed has to do with the Stinger Relay. Small red wire run to it for ”Key on power” Small black wire running to “ Negative buss bar”. From one large terminal a 6 gauge wire running to Fuse box and from the other large terminal a 6 gauge wire runs to the positive buss bar. When I touch the fuse box terminal with one end of my test light and the other end touches the positive buss bar I get power to the fuse box but I don’t know where the power is coming from. Electrical stuff has always been VooDoo magic to me. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated

If one end of your test light is on the positive buss bar, I'd assume that's where your power it coming from. The test light is shorting the positive buss bar to the fuse box; I assume the light wouldn't come on unless there's a ground somewhere to complete the circuit however. Wouldn't you want the ground end on of the test light to be on your negative/ground buss bar?
I, too, have a 2016 P1k. I ran a dedicated ground wire back to the engine block and attached it at the same point the factory battery attached, which as I understand is the same location the factory "winch" ground wire goes in later model P1ks. This is anchored to my ground buss bar next to my second battery, and where the second battery negative is attached. Granted, I also run 2 conductor wire to all my accessories; I haven't ground anything to the frame.

 

[BobSmithing]

The voodoo magic begins. I have been trying to install a second battery using a youtube video by Robert Sparre. I have check everything more than once and can’t solve a couple problems I’m having. I haven’t purchased the second battery yet but when I start my pioneer, I get a reading on both volt meters( How’s that happening) The other thing I noticed has to do with the Stinger Relay. Small red wire run to it for ”Key on power” Small black wire running to “ Negative buss bar”. From one large terminal a 6 gauge wire running to Fuse box and from the other large terminal a 6 gauge wire runs to the positive buss bar. When I touch the fuse box terminal with one end of my test light and the other end touches the positive buss bar I get power to the fuse box but I don’t know where the power is coming from. Electrical stuff has always been VooDoo magic to me. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated

To start what else is connected to your positive buss bar? A wild stab without that info. If you have the positive terminal from the main battery connected to the positive buss bar that may be part of the reason. From the Stinger, you should run from the 2nd battery positive terminal to one of the large terminals then from the other large terminal to either a positive buss for the secondary battery or to a fuse block that acts as the positive buss for the accessories. Some pictures might help.

 

[BobSmithing]

Thanks for the instructions. I’m starting to get a better understanding of it now. I was thinking that it was reading the battery voltage but it really reads what the charge is going to the battery. ( I hope that’s correct!) 🤪

As I understand it the voltmeter will reflect the battery voltage and if it is charging it will reflect the charge voltage at that time. So it's one of those "it depends" answers! (Assuming I'm understanding it correctly!)

 

[BillChestnutt]

Thanks for everyone’s help. Second battery is in and functioning properly.( In case you didn’t notice, electrical issues are not my strong point!) I’m just a handle cranking toolmaker. Give me a drawing and some time and I can usually make it ,but electricity is MAGIC!!!!

 

[bumperm]

Thanks for everyone’s help. Second battery is in and functioning properly.( In case you didn’t notice, electrical issues are not my strong point!) I’m just a handle cranking toolmaker. Give me a drawing and some time and I can usually make it ,but electricity is MAGIC!!!!

No, it's PFM. The P is for "Pure", the rest is easier to figure than all them electrons.

I went to Navy ET (Electronics Technician) School in '63 at Treasure Island. My whole career ('cept for 10 years on Oakland PD) has been in electronics . . . and I'm still confused!

I'm almost finished with my wiring "upgrades". Thr 1000-5 SE comes with additional and boxes under the hood, leaving less space to put new stuff. I added the fuse box and quasi-stinger relay (it's a 75 amp rated Bosch-as I had a few in stock and 75 amps for the accessory load is more than enough. The winch is wired on it's own so not counted.) I split the 12 fuse box into two 6 outlets, so half are powered all the time (to be switched separately) and the other half are key switch on/off - that was a chore that I wouldn't recommend doing again as the + bus inside the box was never made to be cut in half, though it did save some space and wiring over installing two 6's.

Edit to add: I used the primary battery negative terminal for ground to the second battery. Made my own cables using 4 AWG welding cable, as flexibility and insulation is excellent.

One nice thing is that the SE wiring includes a red/yellow going to the accessory fuse/relay box they mount over (and in the way of) the place for the aux battery. This is from fuse #5, the ignition switched positive that is handy for the relay used to switch ground for the dual voltmeter, as well as providing key switched power for the "stinger" relay - if one decides to use one. It does simplicate things.