P700m2 Removing the dual battery setup?

[Reloder28]

Currently running an auxiliary & stock battery on my 700-2. Thinking on deleting the factory junk & rolling with the auxiliary only. Don’t like the way the isolator works with my machine.
See any reasons to keep the dual battery setup??

 

[Admin]

 

[Smitty335]

Currently running an auxiliary & stock battery on my 700-2. Thinking on deleting the factory junk & rolling with the auxiliary only. Don’t like the way the isolator works with my machine.
See any reasons to keep the dual battery setup??

I haven't had any issues with the isolator since 17?

 

[P1K5Dave]

You've already got all the infrastructure to run two, which is far superior to running one. Unless you have no reason for an aux battery, why not just get a better isolator?

 

[Reloder28]

The isolator does not allow my lighting to “come in” until some delay, usually about 30 seconds. Even if it is only vexing & not critical, I still am considering deleting the factory battery.

 

[Reloder28]

You've already got all the infrastructure to run two, which is far superior to running one. Unless you have no reason for an aux battery, why not just get a better isolator?

Thunk about that option too.

 

[P1K5Dave]

Something isn't right if you have a lighting delay

 

[Reloder28]

The isolator is the Tru-?? from this forum store. Cannot have more than 10 hours on it.

 

[P1K5Dave]

With limited information, I was thinking about how you could have a lighting delay.

My first take is that your aux battery is draining dead, and it takes 30 seconds after you're up and running to get it juiced up.

 

[Tramguage1]

Not sure you can remove the main battery!
How would you startbyour machine? The isolator should be (open) after you turn off your machine.
I think we need more info to be able to assist you in trouble shooting your problem.

 

[Tramguage1]

I actually just added a car size battery under the drivers seat on my 700.

 

[Scoop]

The isolator does not allow my lighting to “come in” until some delay, usually about 30 seconds. Even if it is only vexing & not critical, I still am considering deleting the factory battery.

Your "lighting" doesn't come on for ~30 seconds? What lighting? Like all your light bars and other accessories? If so, then it's likely not the isolator.

Either your electrical isn't properly wired up (anything connected to or after the AUX battery should power up as soon as you turn the key on, assuming you have it wired to key-on power like like most do) OR you have a dead AUX battery. Almost sounds like the latter.

The light "comes on" (connects the two batteries in parallel) when the source charging voltage is above 13.6V. It shuts off "disconnects the parallel circuit" when source voltage falls below 12.9V. There is also a built-in 10 second delay when the isolator connects or disconnects the two batteries.

If your primary battery is just below the cutoff voltage BEFORE you start the vehicle, the batteries will be isolated (not connected). Once you start it, the charging system pushes the primary side of circuit over 13.6V, which connects the batteries. If your AUX battery is dead BEFORE you start the vehicle, anything connected to it won't energize until AFTER the primary source starts charging (not including the 10 second delay).

Again, if your "lighting" means accessories and such and they aren't coming on for a short time after you START your bike, it sounds like that AUX battery is dead.

Assuming the rest of the electrical system is in good shape, a properly wired isolator works the same in your bike as everyone else's.

As for your question about "any reason to keep a dual battery setup": Yes, lots of reasons. The most important reason is that, if wired properly, the isolator protects you from running down your primary battery (while listening to the radio or running your lights or accessories when the key is off if so wired or by heavy winching even when the bike is running) so you don't get stranded because you can't start your machine. That's really THE point of an isolator in a dual (or multiple) battery system.

 

[allgm1]

Get rid of the second battery if you have no need for it. I've been running one car sized battery in my 700 since it was new without any issuses. We don't go out in the woods and play tunes and have lights on without the machine running, I do have a large driveway and live in NH so Ive been known to go out and plow snow (using the winch to raise/lower the plow) and have the heater on for hours on end and never got close to running the battery down. I prefer the single battery also just because there are fewer parts to fail out in the middle of no where

 

[Scoop]

Get rid of the second battery if you have no need for it. I've been running one car sized battery in my 700 since it was new without any issuses. We don't go out in the woods and play tunes and have lights on without the machine running, I do have a large driveway and live in NH so Ive been known to go out and plow snow (using the winch to raise/lower the plow) and have the heater on for hours on end and never got close to running the battery down. I prefer the single battery also just because there are fewer parts to fail out in the middle of no where

All good points.

Although I would counter with "If you're out in the middle of nowhere and your single battery goes dead, you don't have another battery to get you home -- whether it's your primary because your AUX went bad, or because your primary went bad and you use your AUX to jump start.

Again, it's all about need, what you do with your machine and how close you are to civilization or assistance.

 

[Mudwisel]

Not sure you can remove the main battery!
How would you startbyour machine? The isolator should be (open) after you turn off your machine.
I think we need more info to be able to assist you in trouble shooting your problem.

Actually just for a, FYI incase people didnt know, you can set it up to run main or auxiliary or both but that is another story. This is not meant to be derogatory in any way, just for informative purposes

 

[Mudwisel]

I don't think the isolator is the issue. Agree with one of the above post about second battery being drained somehow. With you already having duel set up I cant think of a reason to not have it

 

[Reloder28]

I will take all of this under advisement and do some deeper troubleshooting before making any permanent adjustments. Yes, all of my auxiliary lighting, all switched with the key.

 

[Reloder28]

Either your electrical isn't properly wired up (anything connected to or after the AUX battery should power up as soon as you turn the key on, assuming you have it wired to key-on power like like most do) OR, YOU HAVE A DEAD AUX BATTERY. Almost sounds like the latter.

UPDATE:
Ran a parasitic key on/key off amp draw on the system and found none. Zero amps with key off, .05 amps with key on. In my getting older mind I was convinced the auxiliary battery was all but new. Not only is it over two years old but, it was dry as a bone. I don't know if it was near dry when I purchased it or not, could have been. I keep the machine on a two bank battery tender when parked for any period more than two weeks. The tender reads 13.65v output at all times. When I pulled it off the dry battery, the battery voltage would steadily drop and level off at +/- 9.25v. Once refilled it began bubbling. So, maybe I can resurrect it. We'll see. It is a Marine RV Deep Cycle.

And, you are correct, the isolator is performing its task quite well. I remember a couple of recent starts, key on & wait for the dash lights to cycle, the dual voltmeter read 14.4v (normal reading with engine running) for the Honda original battery & 5v on the auxiliary which I cautiously dismissed. As expected, it did rear its ugly head, the reason for my inquiry here.

I appreciate everyones input.

 

[Scoop]

UPDATE:
Ran a parasitic key on/key off amp draw on the system and found none. Zero amps with key off, .05 amps with key on. In my getting older mind I was convinced the auxiliary battery was all but new. Not only is it over two years old but, it was dry as a bone. I don't know if it was near dry when I purchased it or not, could have been. I keep the machine on a two bank battery tender when parked for any period more than two weeks. The tender reads 13.65v output at all times. When I pulled it off the dry battery, the battery voltage would steadily drop and level off at +/- 9.25v. Once refilled it began bubbling. So, maybe I can resurrect it. We'll see. It is a Marine RV Deep Cycle.

And, you are correct, the isolator is performing its task quite well. I remember a couple of recent starts, key on & wait for the dash lights to cycle, the dual voltmeter read 14.4v (normal reading with engine running) for the Honda original battery & 5v on the auxiliary which I cautiously dismissed. As expected, it did rear its ugly head, the reason for my inquiry here.

I appreciate everyones input.

Glad you got it all sorted.

As for the AUX battery: Over 2 years old and dry as a bone for some time? Unless it says "JESUS" on the side, I doubt you're going to be able to fully resurrect that one. Personally, I'd replace it.

 

[Reloder28]

I replaced it with a trouble free Optima Blue Top. All is well now. Thanks again for everyone’s help.

 

[P1K5Dave]

Thanks for coming back with your follow-up @Reloder28

Everyone likes closure. Heck, I prefer it over pics!