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I have been starting personalizing my P1000-5. here is the dual battery install. I didnt install the voltage meter I'm still on the fence wondering if I want it.
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Here is the cab lights and the back up lights.
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Here are the front and rear a-arm skid plates and tie downs.
TxDoc
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Looks great old sparky
where did you get the tie downs?
You'll be headed to SEMA
Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
where did you get the tie downs? You'll be headed to SEMA
Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
CID
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You want the dual VM, how else are you going to keep track of the batteries?
Key on, not running -
Immediately after starting - voltage to primary battery only -
Within seconds, isolator closes, connecting both batteries to charging circuit. This steps up to 14+ volts quickly.
Key on, not running -
Immediately after starting - voltage to primary battery only -
Within seconds, isolator closes, connecting both batteries to charging circuit. This steps up to 14+ volts quickly.
O
thanks for posting the volt meter. Does either battery voltage display when the key is off? I wouldn't really like that.
My neighbor made the tie downs and skid plate. I am encouraging him to fabricate and sell these.
My neighbor made the tie downs and skid plate. I am encouraging him to fabricate and sell these.
CID
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No, the VMs are only lit when the key is on. There's a secret to this, it's the 'key on relay' that switches the ground OFF when the key is off. For my whole life, the key controlled the 12 volt feed to any accessories but in this application, the key controls the relay that controls the GROUND that feeds the VM.
The orange arrow is pointing to the ground that turns the VM off and is controlled by the orange relay above it. The two leads to the batteries are always HOT. That relay is included in the TrueAm kit sold here.
J
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Couple of thoughts, nice clean work. @CID covered much, so this is mostly options and opinion:
You may want a secure tie down for the Aux battery, I didn't see one on your install. I cheated on mine and used a nylon cam lock strap. I tested strength of using hot melt glue to secure the nylon strap to the side wall of the battery compartment. It's strong, so that's what I used.
On the dual voltmeter. Aside from ignition switch on, charging etc., it is also desirable to have the ability to check battery voltage with no-load and at rest. You cannot do that if you have to turn on the key to get a ground to the voltmeter (the battery positives are connected full time of course) but as soon as the ignition key is on, there's a significant load on the main battery running all the computer and vehicle systems. The fix is to install a momentary push button that will apply a ground to the voltmeter's ground connection. Ground is right handy nearby as it's already on most of the switches for the LED backlighting. Here's mine (momentary button below meter).
You may want a secure tie down for the Aux battery, I didn't see one on your install. I cheated on mine and used a nylon cam lock strap. I tested strength of using hot melt glue to secure the nylon strap to the side wall of the battery compartment. It's strong, so that's what I used.
On the dual voltmeter. Aside from ignition switch on, charging etc., it is also desirable to have the ability to check battery voltage with no-load and at rest. You cannot do that if you have to turn on the key to get a ground to the voltmeter (the battery positives are connected full time of course) but as soon as the ignition key is on, there's a significant load on the main battery running all the computer and vehicle systems. The fix is to install a momentary push button that will apply a ground to the voltmeter's ground connection. Ground is right handy nearby as it's already on most of the switches for the LED backlighting. Here's mine (momentary button below meter).
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Under your hood is… how should I put this…
Too Tidy!
Too Tidy!
Scoop
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Nice work, @old sparky.
Dual voltmeter: You definitely want that, otherwise it's kinda like installing a second fuel tank and an automatic transfer pump but not having a fuel gage on either tank.
Tie down points: Nice work, but after switching from a tie down solution that is dependent upon and compromised by the movement of the suspension system to using Erickson wheel nets and eTrack that secures the TIRES to the trailer regardless of what the suspension does, I'll never go back to a conventional solution that is affected by the bouncing of the machine on the trailer.
Finally, if part of that skid setup is the factory/OEM skid plate (I can't tell), you're not going to be happy with it if/once you start putting that machine in environments beyond everyday flat trails and roadways. For me, full coverage 1/2" UHMW is the only way to go. YMMV, of course.
Dual voltmeter: You definitely want that, otherwise it's kinda like installing a second fuel tank and an automatic transfer pump but not having a fuel gage on either tank.
Tie down points: Nice work, but after switching from a tie down solution that is dependent upon and compromised by the movement of the suspension system to using Erickson wheel nets and eTrack that secures the TIRES to the trailer regardless of what the suspension does, I'll never go back to a conventional solution that is affected by the bouncing of the machine on the trailer.
Finally, if part of that skid setup is the factory/OEM skid plate (I can't tell), you're not going to be happy with it if/once you start putting that machine in environments beyond everyday flat trails and roadways. For me, full coverage 1/2" UHMW is the only way to go. YMMV, of course.
Scoop
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Oh, on the battery hold down: I cut two slots about 1.5" long by 1/16" wide into the bottom of the battery compartment (parallel with the long sides of the battery compartment, in the middle of the battery), then used a ~2' long strip of 1" wide Velcro (trimmed after installing and securing the battery), looping it from the top through one slot, under the tray, then back up into the tray and securing it around the battery. It's going absolutely nowhere, but it's easy to R&R if needed, and any water that gets into the battery compartment can drain out of the slots as well.
I stink at drawing, but something along the lines of this:
I stink at drawing, but something along the lines of this:
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my neighbor cut them on his plasma table. I am telling him he should market them.
O
S
I like the cab lights. Did you run them off a factory light switch or install an additional switch?
Scoop
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They make it in different widths and lengths, but the product I used is called Velcro One-Wrap. Example:
VELCRO Brand ONE-WRAP Roll Black | 30 Ft x 1-1/2 In | Reusable Self-Gripping Hook and Loop Tape
O
I did run them off one of the factory rocker switches. I hooked up my two backup and those 4 cab lights on a test cord. With all 6 together they pull just less than 1 amp. So the factory switch is fine for those. The only thing I may want is to either put a dim led by the switches or an illuminated switch. ISince the location is new I grope in the dark for the switch.
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