P1000 Parallel Battery Switch

OnTheJob

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My dual battery setup is the typical True Isolator between batteries and everything aftermarket runs off the second battery. I installed a Noco Genius trickle charger to the main battery because when it was cold or the machine was sitting for a few days, I felt like there was barely enough juice to get her going. Obviously with the isolator, the voltage or the current only goes one way, from the main battery to the secondary battery. With this setup, you can't start the engine with the second battery unless you had some jumper cables between batteries.

That got me thinking, what if I installed a 500 amp battery switch with 6 gauge wire between the positive posts of the two batteries. If the main battery is not able start the engine, I could use the secondary battery to get her going then close the switch. This should be a redundancy fail safe because there isn't anything on the main battery the should run it down. My boat has a momentary parallel switch that does just that, start one engine that bank of batteries doesn't have enough juice with the other bank of batteries.

I'd start with this switch:
https://www.amazon.com/Zoostliss-Battery-Isolator-Disconnect-Vehicles/dp/B071D55VM3/?tag=sxsweb24-20

51hz0C9tvUL SL1010


I'd probably put it under the hood so the length between the two battery would be short. Hopefully I'd never have to use it so it doesn't need to be on the dash for convenience. This is what I thought would work for the wiring:

Battery Switch


I'm no electrician, but here is my thinking; it is just like the isolator except now voltage/current can go both ways. Thought???
 
Neohio

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I just sent Trueam a message asking if his iso will allow for a manual boost option.
Your diagram looks like it will serve your needs. Is this for your current ride or potential replacement?
 
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Cuoutdoors

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I dont understand why everyone has such a fear of their battery going dead and insists on having an isolator.....

Now your problem is exactly what you wanted to avoid, a low main battery. This seems like an awful lot of extra wiring going back and forth. If you run all your accessories via a large continuous duty solenoid and control it with keyed power you wont ever have to worry about them killing the batteries. So long as you dont park it with the key left on.

Then you always have the full power of both batteries to start the machine and operate the clutches. I've done it this way for 3 years and haven't had a single issue.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
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OnTheJob

OnTheJob

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I just sent Trueam a message asking if his iso will allow for a manual boost option.
Your diagram looks like it will serve your needs. Is this for your current ride or potential replacement?

Potential addition to the isolator.

I dont understand why everyone has such a fear of their battery going dead and insists on having an isolator.....

Now your problem is exactly what you wanted to avoid, a low main battery. This seems like an awful lot of extra wiring going back and forth. If you run all your accessories via a large continuous duty solenoid and control it with keyed power you wont ever have to worry about them killing the batteries. So long as you dont park it with the key left on.

Then you always have the full power of both batteries to start the machine and operate the clutches. I've done it this way for 3 years and haven't had a single issue.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Apparently you missed the redundancy clause. This is just another backup to the second battery. The second battery would never drain the main battery because of the isolator. All of the aftermarket additions are through the second battery. Main battery only powers the factory accessories. I like to park it and run aftermarket accessories off the second battery without having the key on so it does not power everything that the main does when key on. We all have our individual ideas what works best for our each individual needs.
 
Cuoutdoors

Cuoutdoors

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Potential addition to the isolator.



Apparently you missed the redundancy clause. This is just another backup to the second battery. The second battery would never drain the main battery because of the isolator. All of the aftermarket additions are through the second battery. Main battery only powers the factory accessories. I like to park it and run aftermarket accessories off the second battery without having the key on so it does not power everything that the main does when key on. We all have our individual ideas what works best for our each individual needs.
You can use a switch and volt meter as well instead of a keyed option. You're working yourself in circles but you do you.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
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Smitty335

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My dual battery setup is the typical True Isolator between batteries and everything aftermarket runs off the second battery. I installed a Noco Genius trickle charger to the main battery because when it was cold or the machine was sitting for a few days, I felt like there was barely enough juice to get her going. Obviously with the isolator, the voltage or the current only goes one way, from the main battery to the secondary battery. With this setup, you can't start the engine with the second battery unless you had some jumper cables between batteries.

That got me thinking, what if I installed a 500 amp battery switch with 6 gauge wire between the positive posts of the two batteries. If the main battery is not able start the engine, I could use the secondary battery to get her going then close the switch. This should be a redundancy fail safe because there isn't anything on the main battery the should run it down. My boat has a momentary parallel switch that does just that, start one engine that bank of batteries doesn't have enough juice with the other bank of batteries.

I'd start with this switch:
https://www.amazon.com/Zoostliss-Battery-Isolator-Disconnect-Vehicles/dp/B071D55VM3/?tag=sxsweb24-20

View attachment 106061

I'd probably put it under the hood so the length between the two battery would be short. Hopefully I'd never have to use it so it doesn't need to be on the dash for convenience. This is what I thought would work for the wiring:

View attachment 106062

I'm no electrician, but here is my thinking; it is just like the isolator except now voltage/current can go both ways. Thought???
I like this idea!
 
Montecresto

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My dual battery setup is the typical True Isolator between batteries and everything aftermarket runs off the second battery. I installed a Noco Genius trickle charger to the main battery because when it was cold or the machine was sitting for a few days, I felt like there was barely enough juice to get her going. Obviously with the isolator, the voltage or the current only goes one way, from the main battery to the secondary battery. With this setup, you can't start the engine with the second battery unless you had some jumper cables between batteries.

That got me thinking, what if I installed a 500 amp battery switch with 6 gauge wire between the positive posts of the two batteries. If the main battery is not able start the engine, I could use the secondary battery to get her going then close the switch. This should be a redundancy fail safe because there isn't anything on the main battery the should run it down. My boat has a momentary parallel switch that does just that, start one engine that bank of batteries doesn't have enough juice with the other bank of batteries.

I'd start with this switch:
https://www.amazon.com/Zoostliss-Battery-Isolator-Disconnect-Vehicles/dp/B071D55VM3/?tag=sxsweb24-20

View attachment 106061

I'd probably put it under the hood so the length between the two battery would be short. Hopefully I'd never have to use it so it doesn't need to be on the dash for convenience. This is what I thought would work for the wiring:

View attachment 106062

I'm no electrician, but here is my thinking; it is just like the isolator except now voltage/current can go both ways. Thought???
This is essentially what I have on my P5, save the switch you’re seeking is basically a built in position of my Perko* switch.
 
Smitty335

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Since I don't run a 100,000 watt radio/light Pioneer, my system of 2nd battery connected direct to first battery, works fine for me...... KISS .... lol.
I'm getting a 100,000 watt stereo installed before the Take Over, cause last year I didn't hear any Bluegrass in the Bluegrass State, this year every one will hear Bluegrass music, HA!
 
Montecresto

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I'm getting a 100,000 watt stereo installed before the Take Over, cause last year I didn't hear any Bluegrass in the Bluegrass State, this year every one will hear Bluegrass music, HA!
Better get movin....;)
 
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MC_Crowbar

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I'm been mulling over something exactly like this. My factory battery is getting weak on me already (I bought a 2016 model in 2018, so I'm sure the battery sat dead on the lot for months at a time), so I'd like to be able to jump myself using the brand new aux batt I just put in. As the other said, it's just that much more complication, but that switch looks like the safe way to go. It's either that or I was going to get two alligator clips and make a custom 6" jump cable to keep stashed somewhere. I don't know if I'd want to run two new cables and stack them directly to the battery posts (making for 3 lugs hanging off that post), or just put the switch in-line around the isolator. I'd like to see pictures once your done!
 
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mjn

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I think it sounds like a fantastic idea.
Mine is an 18, and my OE battery is toast. It’s my fault, as I did a bunch of short runs with it summer & fall, leading to a “no start” issue at the bottom of my property. I believe this caused one of the cels in the OE battery to go bad. It’s been on the charger for 2 days, showed 100%, but pulled down so fast it wouldn’t start the motor. I jumped from one side of the isolator to the other.. engaging my aux battery, & it started right up.
This is a “redundant” option I think I might do.
 
K

KeithPioneer-5

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My dual battery setup is the typical True Isolator between batteries and everything aftermarket runs off the second battery. I installed a Noco Genius trickle charger to the main battery because when it was cold or the machine was sitting for a few days, I felt like there was barely enough juice to get her going. Obviously with the isolator, the voltage or the current only goes one way, from the main battery to the secondary battery. With this setup, you can't start the engine with the second battery unless you had some jumper cables between batteries.

That got me thinking, what if I installed a 500 amp battery switch with 6 gauge wire between the positive posts of the two batteries. If the main battery is not able start the engine, I could use the secondary battery to get her going then close the switch. This should be a redundancy fail safe because there isn't anything on the main battery the should run it down. My boat has a momentary parallel switch that does just that, start one engine that bank of batteries doesn't have enough juice with the other bank of batteries.

I'd start with this switch:
https://www.amazon.com/Zoostliss-Battery-Isolator-Disconnect-Vehicles/dp/B071D55VM3/?tag=sxsweb24-20

View attachment 106061

I'd probably put it under the hood so the length between the two battery would be short. Hopefully I'd never have to use it so it doesn't need to be on the dash for convenience. This is what I thought would work for the wiring:

View attachment 106062

I'm no electrician, but here is my thinking; it is just like the isolator except now voltage/current can go both ways. Thought???
Why not just move 2nd battery cable to the main side of the True isolator in the event that main battery is dead. Most likely won't ever need it. But will serve see purpose as a switch without added wires
 
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sheba4

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I'm getting a 100,000 watt stereo installed before the Take Over, cause last year I didn't hear any Bluegrass in the Bluegrass State, this year every one will hear Bluegrass music, HA!

I will bring my gibson rb 250 banjo and clinch mountain backstep...

Gary
 
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