Out of wack track

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Muley

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Ok, I’m not the brightest bulb in the string but I can always figure things out.
I just got done with installing Satv arms, so my tires don’t rub. First time out on gravel road was disconcerting to say the least, big time wander and some sudden “lane changes “, where there’s no room for error. I had to replace a tie rod end so I waited to check toe in till I got the part. Toe was WAY off, 1/2” too much on one side and a full inch on the other. The problem is, passenger side front and rear tires line up, drivers side the rear is 3/4” +\- farther outboard than the front. I have 30x10x14 KM3 with 2” spacers front and rear, with the 1.5” forward a-arms in front. Unfortunately I never checked track before starting on the switch to 30’s so I don’t know what it was stock. Any thoughts? I’m going to take it out now I have the toe set and see how it feels. Most of my driving is 30-40mph on hard pack/loose gravel surface, so it shouldn’t take long to see if it’s good again.

Image Image Image
 
JenElio

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Ok, I’m not the brightest bulb in the string but I can always figure things out.
I just got done with installing Satv arms, so my tires don’t rub. First time out on gravel road was disconcerting to say the least, big time wander and some sudden “lane changes “, where there’s no room for error. I had to replace a tie rod end so I waited to check toe in till I got the part. Toe was WAY off, 1/2” too much on one side and a full inch on the other. The problem is, passenger side front and rear tires line up, drivers side the rear is 3/4” +\- farther outboard than the front. I have 30x10x14 KM3 with 2” spacers front and rear, with the 1.5” forward a-arms in front. Unfortunately I never checked track before starting on the switch to 30’s so I don’t know what it was stock. Any thoughts? I’m going to take it out now I have the toe set and see how it feels. Most of my driving is 30-40mph on hard pack/loose gravel surface, so it shouldn’t take long to see if it’s good again.

View attachment 403039 View attachment 403041 View attachment 403043
Have you checked/measured the threads on the arms where you can adjust for camber/toe to make sure they more or less match? That's a lot for them to be that far out.
 
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Muley

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Have you checked/measured the threads on the arms where you can adjust for camber/toe to make sure they more or less match? That's a lot for them to be that far out.
For toe, it’s a ‘22 with a typical turnbuckle style tie rod. It only took 4 or 5 half turns to bring the toe in to within reason, and it drives great now, I just got back. Camber is supposed to be set from Satv, and they are both slightly negative, but I don’t have the equipment to dial in 1 degree. The bulge at the bottom of the tire negates any measurement that fine.
 
Scoop

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Camber is supposed to be set from Satv, and they are both slightly negative, but I don’t have the equipment to dial in 1 degree.
When I installed my SATV A-Arms, camber was way off out of the box. I popped for the Tenhulzen 2-wheel alignment tool (camber/caster/toe plats) from Amazon. If you were nearby, I'd be happy to loan it to you, but AZ is quite the haul.

I actually did my best eyeballing them and thought I was close but found out I was way off when I got the right tool.
 
Remington

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Ok, I’m not the brightest bulb in the string but I can always figure things out.
I just got done with installing Satv arms, so my tires don’t rub. First time out on gravel road was disconcerting to say the least, big time wander and some sudden “lane changes “, where there’s no room for error. I had to replace a tie rod end so I waited to check toe in till I got the part. Toe was WAY off, 1/2” too much on one side and a full inch on the other. The problem is, passenger side front and rear tires line up, drivers side the rear is 3/4” +\- farther outboard than the front. I have 30x10x14 KM3 with 2” spacers front and rear, with the 1.5” forward a-arms in front. Unfortunately I never checked track before starting on the switch to 30’s so I don’t know what it was stock. Any thoughts? I’m going to take it out now I have the toe set and see how it feels. Most of my driving is 30-40mph on hard pack/loose gravel surface, so it shouldn’t take long to see if it’s good again.

View attachment 403039 View attachment 403041 View attachment 403043
A few things here. First what the others have said is quite helpful fo sho. You can just eyeball it and get real close like sighting in a new rifle without a borescope. Thats what I did with mine. But u have to be patient and just forget what SATV says in the instructions. Your rear camber from your last pic is way off. Hard to tell with your front cuz you didnt take straight on pics there all on a kitrence, but I assume there the same. As for your trac, got to dump the 2” spacers all the way around. Looks as if your using same size tires all the way around as do I and 30’s you need 1-1/2 in the rear and 1 in the front to fix that.
@RB3offroad is a vender here abd in your beck of the woods and they sell a nice wide trac bundle for you.
2” spcers are really huge and hard on things over time. The subject for your trac on this has been beat to death on this forum as well as this camber issue. Use the search up top for further reading
Heres a link.

Heres my pioneer with your set up and the adjustments made.
Go Army Green!
63762179888  9BF13CE8 C6CB 408A 8E91 A80AF1014ACD
IMG 3737

Last pic i was too close. But trust me its as straight as a non Bud Lite drinker
 
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Robobrainiac

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If you know someone who truly knows how alignments work you can align the pioneer on an alignment machine.

Post #8


Post #35

You can also get at home alignment kits
 
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Smitty335

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Ok, I’m not the brightest bulb in the string but I can always figure things out.
I just got done with installing Satv arms, so my tires don’t rub. First time out on gravel road was disconcerting to say the least, big time wander and some sudden “lane changes “, where there’s no room for error. I had to replace a tie rod end so I waited to check toe in till I got the part. Toe was WAY off, 1/2” too much on one side and a full inch on the other. The problem is, passenger side front and rear tires line up, drivers side the rear is 3/4” +\- farther outboard than the front. I have 30x10x14 KM3 with 2” spacers front and rear, with the 1.5” forward a-arms in front. Unfortunately I never checked track before starting on the switch to 30’s so I don’t know what it was stock. Any thoughts? I’m going to take it out now I have the toe set and see how it feels. Most of my driving is 30-40mph on hard pack/loose gravel surface, so it shouldn’t take long to see if it’s good again.

View attachment 403039 View attachment 403041 View attachment 403043
You should have got some basic information with your A-Arms for camber, it's real close, front and back of the A-Arm are different lengths. Toe in is simple.
 
M

Muley

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A few things here. First what the others have said is quite helpful fo sho. You can just eyeball it and get real close like sighting in a new rifle without a borescope. Thats what I did with mine. But u have to be patient and just forget what SATV says in the instructions. Your rear camber from your last pic is way off. Hard to tell with your front cuz you didnt take straight on pics there all on a kitrence, but I assume there the same. As for your trac, got to dump the 2” spacers all the way around. Looks as if your using same size tires all the way around as do I and 30’s you need 1-1/2 in the rear and 1 in the front to fix that.
@RB3offroad is a vender here abd in your beck of the woods and they sell a nice wide trac bundle for you.
2” spcers are really huge and hard on things over time. The subject for your trac on this has been beat to death on this forum as well as this camber issue. Use the search up top for further reading
Heres a link.

Heres my pioneer with your set up and the adjustments made.
Go Army Green!
View attachment 403083View attachment 403084
Last pic i was too close. But trust me its as straight as a non Bud Lite drinker
I guess I shouldn’t have started off with the impression that I was a dim bulb. The other percent of my driving is way off road, I guess I could call it rock climbing. It’s pretty common for me to have a full squat down load of firewood or gravel, depending on the season. I put 30’s on for the clearance instead of a lift, a-arms in front cause the tires rubbed, and spacers because it goes up on 2 wheels way too easy for my comfort. I was going to go 1 1/2” and 1”, but I got 2” for cheap at the time about $150 less than the others, so I used them. My rear suspension is stock, so the camber is what it is, and the shocks, as bad as they are, are cranked up to 4, and will have to wait until next year. I’m 70 and social security won’t let me burn another thousand on rear shocks and arms for a while. I would have liked Walker Evans shocks too but had to settle for Rough Country in the front at way less than 1/2 price. I do understand suspension geometry, but I’m also a realist, how constant is the camber going to stay over the length of travel? If I were to set it perfectly unloaded with wheels off, is it still going to be -1 degree at 80 % downstroke? I kind of doubt it. The rears really tuck in negative when I’m hauling a full load, maybe the front is different. The point of my original post was, why does my track not match front to rear? There should be a half inch difference on each side, not an inch on the left and nothing on the right.
Sorry for misleading you all.
 
Scoop

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That's one hella word salad there, @Muley.

No, camber doesn't stay constant over the entire length of travel. If it did, there would be no reason to adjust it anywhere other than 0 degrees.

Using 2" spacers (over, say, the wide track kit) all the way around just because they were cheaper doesn't mean a thing relative to proper/best suspension geometry, and the stress on everything doesn't go away because you saved money.

Not sure why you're square on one side but not on the other. Dumb suggestions, but did you make sure all the spacers were the correct size? I assume your aftermarket wheels are all identical? Same offset/backspacing on all wheels?
 
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M

Muley

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That's one hella word salad there, @Muley.

No, camber doesn't stay constant over the entire length of travel. If it did, there would be no reason to adjust it anywhere other than 0 degrees.

Using 2" spacers (over, say, the wide track kit) all the way around just because they were cheaper doesn't mean a thing relative to proper/best suspension geometry, and the stress on everything doesn't go away because you saved money.

Not sure why you're square on one side but not on the other. Dumb suggestions, but did you make sure all the spacers were the correct size? I assume your aftermarket wheels are all identical? Same offset/backspacing on all wheels?
I know, I should stay away from posting, sometimes I just throw it out there to see what other people think. People seem to misread, all good though as I still get a lot out of this forum, it’s one of the better ones.
 
ODAMO

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I know, I should stay away from posting, sometimes I just throw it out there to see what other people think. People seem to misread, all good though as I still get a lot out of this forum, it’s one of the better ones.
Don't be afraid of posting. And just learn to dish it back out when someone or two give you some s***.
Nice looking rig, too bad about the green though.....JK 😉
 

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