P1000 My dual battery diagram/plan.

[Alaska350]

I know there is a ton of info on the internet about how to do this but couldn't find any that had the exact set up I want to run so I made my own. I have very few items I want to run initially but like the idea of being prepped for more later on so I have outlined a diagram plan that I would love to get some feedback on since I am by no means an expert. I am gonna install a Auxbeam control panel for the simple on/off stuff just cause it seems super easy lol and then a couple rocker switches that cant be routed through the Auxbeam panel. Thanks guys!

Questions:

• I have the SxS club add-on ACC harness installed that I plan on having it trigger 3 items, will this be too much? See pic.
• Do my ground hook up locations matter?

Accessories:
SxS club fan overide
Winch
Horn
Led Lights

Planned accessories:
Heater
Cab Fans
Stereo

 

[Admin]

 

[bumperm]

As long as a ground is essentially the same point electrically as the battery/frame ground, it's good. One thing I noticed is it appears you are powering the winch through a 100 amp circuit breaker. That won't cut it as peak winch current can be almost double that. It is common to wire the winch contactor directly to the battery - - that's the way my '21 SE winch came wired from factory.

 

[Hondasxs]

Commend you for NOT running the isolator to the buss bar.

Suggestions:

• Recommend moving the winch directly to the second battery. Main power and main ground.
• Fan and horn both need their own inline fuse if your not running them off the Auxbeam.

• I have the SxS club add-on ACC harness installed that I plan on having it trigger 3 items, will this be too much? See pic.
• Do my ground hook up locations matter?

- The ACC should be used for small draw items or as a trigger wire. There is really no limit for using it as a trigger wire.
- YES, Ground location does matter, it matters ALOT!
Ex, in your diagram, to return winch power to the source for a full loop.... it must travel through the primary battery, through the primary ground wire, to the secondary ground wire, and into the source (second battery). Thus why it should be directly to the second battery.

 

[Dave75]

FYI: The Stinger isolator can fail in the cold. I went thru 2 stingers this winter before using a Cole Hersey.
Good job on the dual voltmeter, that is a must have.

 

[Alaska350]

Awesome feedback. So other than moving the winch’s main wires directly to the second battery I am good to go??

Corrected diagram:

 

[JMynes]

It looks good except…
Assuming you’re using 6 ga wire to the bus bar, you should use a 50 amp breaker. 6 ga wire is rated for 50 amps. If you were somehow drawing, say, 90 amps off your bus bar the 6 ga wire could overheat, melt the insulation, and short prior to the circuit breaker, thus going Full Polaris.
Circuit breakers and fuses are meant to protect the wiring, and should be sized accordingly.

 

[Alaska350]

It looks good except…
Assuming you’re using 6 ga wire to the bus bar, you should use a 50 amp breaker. 6 ga wire is rated for 50 amps. If you were somehow drawing, say, 90 amps off your bus bar the 6 ga wire could overheat, melt the insulation, and short prior to the circuit breaker, thus going Full Polaris.
Circuit breakers and fuses are meant to protect the wiring, and should be sized accordingly.

Roger that. Running 6 ga so will order a new 50 amp breaker. Thank you sir!

 

[Alaska350]

Finished up the install. Ended up doing away with the red bus bar since everything can run through the aux beam fuse box/panel. I actually like this because I can control the fan override harness via the panel button.I updated the diagram to reflect this. Only issue so far is the volt meter need to chill the hell out as it’s super bright lol.

 

[StewB]

It looks good except…
Assuming you’re using 6 ga wire to the bus bar, you should use a 50 amp breaker. 6 ga wire is rated for 50 amps. If you were somehow drawing, say, 90 amps off your bus bar the 6 ga wire could overheat, melt the insulation, and short prior to the circuit breaker, thus going Full Polaris.
Circuit breakers and fuses are meant to protect the wiring, and should be sized accordingly.

My new favorite phrase: "going Full Polaris."

 

[bumperm]

Looks good~ however, you need to get rid of those gaudy green nylon ties for black ones!

 

[JMynes]

I like using gaudy color wire ties, that way you know what is not ‘factory’.

 

[Kal]

FYI: The Stinger isolator can fail in the cold. I went thru 2 stingers this winter before using a Cole Hersey.
Good job on the dual voltmeter, that is a must have.

I've read that in a few threads, which Cole Hersey did you use?

 

[Scoop]

I've read that in a few threads, which Cole Hersey did you use?

You want this: Cole Hersee 24117-01-BP 12V Continuous Duty Solenoid

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q8KONI?tag=sxsweb24-20

 

[Alaska350]

Looks good~ however, you need to get rid of those gaudy green nylon ties for black ones!

Yes even when doing it with two different colors my ocd was twitching. Just what I had on hand.

 

[Alaska350]

You want this: Cole Hersee 24117-01-BP 12V Continuous Duty Solenoid

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q8KONI?tag=sxsweb24-20

If and when my solenoid dies and will try one of those.

 

[bumperm]

Yes even when doing it with two different colors my ocd was twitching. Just what I had on hand.

To be clear here, multi-colored nylon ties DO have a place. They work good for identifying which hydraulic quick-connect hose goes to which place when changing implements on the tractor.

 

[Kal]

You want this: Cole Hersee 24117-01-BP 12V Continuous Duty Solenoid

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q8KONI?tag=sxsweb24-20

Thanks scoop! 👍