I think I'm an idiot.....

DHS_Officer

DHS_Officer

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yesterday I changed the oil on my Talon. I did the 12mm drain plug until it was empty.. then I did the 17mm until it was empty. I added 6.1 qt of oil as it calls for.
After about 30 minutes, I thought, I hope I did the right 17mm drain plug. I went out and looked and sure as s***, I did the sub trans, not the oil pan. I checked the oil in the sub and it was empty. So I filled it to the proper level.
So now I'm wondering, if I only did the clutch oil, how much oil did I leave in the oil pan? I assume it wouldn't drain with the clutch otherwise there wouldn't be 2 drain plugs. Even after running the engine. the oil is very clean (new). If I only drained the clutch (12mm) why is the crank case oil so clean?
My plan is to drain all the oil out and start fresh. I don't want to be over filled but this isn't making sense to me.
is the 12mm the oil pan and the 17mm is the clutch? am I now over filled by X# of quarts?

I'm an idiot!!!!
But I sure am glad I caught it....
 
Remington

Remington

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You not an idiot. Honest mistake, easy to do. I would drain them again now that you'll b an expert at what's what now and fill them proper. I know it cost money but u will know its right. Lesson learned. BTW, your prob just fine.
 
Smitty335

Smitty335

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yesterday I changed the oil on my Talon. I did the 12mm drain plug until it was empty.. then I did the 17mm until it was empty. I added 6.1 qt of oil as it calls for.
After about 30 minutes, I thought, I hope I did the right 17mm drain plug. I went out and looked and sure as s***, I did the sub trans, not the oil pan. I checked the oil in the sub and it was empty. So I filled it to the proper level.
So now I'm wondering, if I only did the clutch oil, how much oil did I leave in the oil pan? I assume it wouldn't drain with the clutch otherwise there wouldn't be 2 drain plugs. Even after running the engine. the oil is very clean (new). If I only drained the clutch (12mm) why is the crank case oil so clean?
My plan is to drain all the oil out and start fresh. I don't want to be over filled but this isn't making sense to me.
is the 12mm the oil pan and the 17mm is the clutch? am I now over filled by X# of quarts?

I'm an idiot!!!!
But I sure am glad I caught it....
Been there done that. It's easy to do, just remember you only need a 10 & 12 mm sockets to change motor oil.
 
Hondasxs

Hondasxs

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So now I'm wondering, if I only did the clutch oil, how much oil did I leave in the oil pan? I assume it wouldn't drain with the clutch otherwise there wouldn't be 2 drain plugs.
No, you can't think about it like this.
The oil combines between them.
One is an oil tank, the other is the actual oil pan.
There is no oil directly related to the clutch, it is all shared.
Except sub-trans, it is its own.
 
DHS_Officer

DHS_Officer

Active Member
Jan 14, 2021
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Orange County Cal
Ownership

  1. Talon X
Been there done that. It's easy to do, just remember you only need a 10 & 12 mm sockets to change motor oil.
No, you can't think about it like this.
The oil combines between them.
One is an oil tank, the other is the actual oil pan.
There is no oil directly related to the clutch, it is all shared.
Except sub-trans, it is its own.
so if I drain the 12mm plug, will that drain the entire engine?
 
D

Dankathy

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May 4, 2020
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  1. Talon R
Relatively cheap education, glad you caught it. This is a wonderful opportunity for a knowledgeable person to educate some of us as to how these dry sump systems work. I for one just do as the book says, but would like to understand the flow of things
 
CID

CID

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Been there done that. It's easy to do, just remember you only need a 10 & 12 mm sockets to change motor oil.
Two separate 12mm plugs to drain the entire engine.
On the Talon, it's a 12mm and 17mm (I made that mistake trying to help someone with a P1K 😊).

It's important to note that the 12mm isn't vertical, it's canted - make sure your wrench is tilted at the same angle or you could strip the head.

The 17mm is horizontal and can be seen from in front of the LR tire with a flashlight, it's waaaaaay under there. It can be done with a long extension and a universal or from underneath with a box end wrench.

Stock Talon skid plate (dust cover) but the locations will be the same on a P1K. For an oil change, you want the red circle AND red oval. They're stenciled on the stock plate if you can see that close up when you're lying under it.
1663635313778
 
TripleB

TripleB

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On the Talon, it's a 12mm and 17mm (I made that mistake trying to help someone with a P1K 😊).

It's important to note that the 12mm isn't vertical, it's canted - make sure your wrench is tilted at the same angle or you could strip the head.

The 17mm is horizontal and can be seen from in front of the LR tire with a flashlight, it's waaaaaay under there. It can be done with a long extension and a universal or from underneath with a box end wrench.

Stock Talon skid plate (dust cover) but the locations will be the same on a P1K. For an oil change, you want the red circle AND red oval. They're stenciled on the stock plate if you can see that close up when you're lying under it.
View attachment 354693
I didn't realize the talon was different and only had 1 drain for the motor. He should be good to go then. Add oil to the subtrans and carry on.
 
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Hometeam

Hometeam

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Now I understand lol. Anything to do with oil and Honda is always a s*** show.
Stupid hillbilly, no wonder the KRX blew up!
I'll try to get this thread back to serious questions.....

1) If I do change the oil right on my Honda, will it allow me to clear 35's??

2) Will a blown KRX still fit 35's without any mods??

Thanks for your help as always!! 🤣 🤣🤣
 
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