Honda Talon submerged under water

Quintin4187

Quintin4187

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So took the Talon out to the creek today and was driving through the water. Didn't have seat belt on and wasn't a problem, but hit some soft spot in the sand. Due to the seat belt being off the talon hit the rev limiter, (15mph) while spinning out. Nevertheless I got stuck. Water was up to dash and got out with it still running to hook up winch, after few minutes machine shut off, uh oh. Also water never did get up above the intake, it was leaning. Ended up trying to start it back but would not start back up under water. Got it back out onto dry land and still wouldn't start. Luckily I wasn't too far from home and was pulled back to my house.

I let it sit for about 2 hours and tried starting, still won't start. I removed all 4 seats and blew out water around electrical connections. I removed spark plugs and cranked for a while and found that had some moisture on plugs. Checked the oil and oil is milky, uh oh #2. Haven't checked the sub trans or trans oil yet.

So my question is, if I flush the trans, sub trans, front and rear differentials, and oil, take to dealer will my warranty be voided? I'm sure I can get it started as long as the electrical modules aren't fried, but if I can't would my warranty be pointless if there's more damage to the motor?

From what I've read I'm assuming their are vents to fuel tank and some other components. Is their another decent way to direct those to keep this from happening again. I probably would have been fine had the talon not died while sitting in water. It probably set in water for 15 mins while we got it out.

Try to keep the hate to a minimum, I realize that these aren't submarines, but a little beer and these things sure seem like they can go anywhere lol.

I attached some photos...maybe a learning experience for someone else, or a nice chuckle?

IMG 1552 IMG 1551
 
906UP

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As long as there's no mechanical damage.....bent rods/valves you'll be fine. Drain the tank, oil (both engine & sub trans), fill w fresh fuel, install new plug. Repeat the oil change several times until its clean. It'll cost you a little $$ but its a learning experience, no judgement here.
 
Many_Gs

Many_Gs

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Scary, really doesn't look that deep from the pics. We have a 21 LV too, they're tanks! Good luck to you, keep us posted.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 
JACKAL

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Definitely, drain and flush the following:

Engine / DCT oil - 2 plugs and filters.
Subtransmission oil
Front & Rear differential oil
Fuel Tank
Check air filter and intake / airbox for wet, debris, and sand etc. Replace air filter if needed.

Good luck, hard knocks education is expensive and painful. But it should be.
 
Rayger143

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Definitely, drain and flush the following:

Engine / DCT oil - 2 plugs and filters.
Subtransmission oil
Front & Rear differential oil
Fuel Tank
Check air filter and intake / airbox for wet, debris, and sand etc. Replace air filter if needed.

Good luck, hard knocks education is expensive and painful. But it should be.
100% agree. Replace all fluids and you should be fine. I swamped my Foreman 450 years ago, water in oil and gas etc. I did a couple fluid changes and I was fine. 11,000 kms on that machine now and it runs just as good as new. Honda!
 
CID

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You might have gotten water in the gas tank through the vent, so drain the tank completely. The fuel pump sits down in a depression at the bottom of the tank so make sure you get any water out of that low spot. There are a couple of pics in the thread linked in my sig showing the pump and its sump. It also shows the fuel tank vent location (post #29).
 
M

McCarthy

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Never, ever, EVERY try to start it after it's been submerged. Likely you've destroyed the engine by bending a rod trying to start it while it was still under water.
 
Quintin4187

Quintin4187

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Never, ever, EVERY try to start it after it's been submerged. Likely you've destroyed the engine by bending a rod trying to start it while it was still under water.
I’ve seen others stall out in water and start back up just fine.
I guess I assumed the starter wouldn’t have enough strength to bend a rod with a hydro locked cylinder.
 
Quintin4187

Quintin4187

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You might have gotten water in the gas tank through the vent, so drain the tank completely. The fuel pump sits down in a depression at the bottom of the tank so make sure you get any water out of that low spot. There are a couple of pics in the thread linked in my sig showing the pump and its sump. It also shows the fuel tank vent location (post #29).
Wow, that’s a extensive write up with some great info. I’ll definitely be relocating the vent. Going to let it set for a few days to let the water and oil separate and then drain all the fluids and refill. Probably going to use cheaper oil for the first 2 flushes, then back to Honda OEM oil.

Have you heard any horror stories of a dealership declining warranty on electrical components due to water? Assuming I won’t tell them it was partially submerged, just crossing low water bridge 😬.
 
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Quintin4187

Quintin4187

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100% agree. Replace all fluids and you should be fine. I swamped my Foreman 450 years ago, water in oil and gas etc. I did a couple fluid changes and I was fine. 11,000 kms on that machine now and it runs just as good as new. Honda!
This is good news to hear lol. How many oil changes did it take to completely remove all traces of water in oil?
 
HBarlow

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The key question for me is did the engine stop (while submerged) because electrical harnesses became wet or due to water in the fuel or did it lock down due to water ingestion into a cylinder? I've never experienced a flooded engine but I would expect an owner familiar with his machine would be able to discern between a normal shut down and a sudden lock down.

When you tried to restart the engine did the starter rotate the engine but it failed to start or did the starter simply click and perhaps make a clunking sound because the engine could not rotate?

If the engine locked down while running it's very likely a rod was bent. That's "hydra-lock." Air in a cylinder will compress, water does not.

If the engine did not ingest water and hydra-lock, changing all fluids and filers, draining and refilling the gas tank, and drying all the wiring harnesses may return things to normal. When modern highly accessorized cars are submerged in water insurance companies usually declare them a total loss because the electrical problems and labor charges are never ending. Our buggies are much simpler. If you have pretty good mechanical skills and feel bold you might try removing the engine wiring harness(es) and hang them vertically in the sun to dry for 24 hours.

If your buggy is insured with a good liability, comprehensive, and collision coverage the company might pay for repairs if they believe the submersion was an accident.

Once you get past this experience you might want to consider a boat for the times your beer consumption leads you to pllay in the creek.
 
CID

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Wow, that’s a extensive write up with some great info. I’ll definitely be relocating the vent. Going to let it set for a few days to let the water and oil separate and then drain all the fluids and refill. Probably going to use cheaper oil for the first 2 flushes, then back to Honda OEM oil.

Have you heard any horror stories of a dealership declining warranty on electrical components due to water? Assuming I won’t tell them it was partially submerged, just crossing low water bridge 😬.
The Talons (and probably most SxSs) are pretty much waterproof, mfrs know they’re gonna get wet. They don’t have any windows and we hose ‘em off with pressure washers, it’s the nature of the beast.

Because of that, I doubt there’s an electrical issue caused by the water. If you didn’t hydro-lock it (sounds like you didn’t, water would have gushed out of the plug holes when you cranked it over), you just have to find what got wet and I’m guessing the fuel.

Don’t tell the dealer you sunk it, if he mentions water marks, tell him that’s from hosing it off and splashes from mud holes.

First oil change, bring it up to two bars then drain. 2nd oil change, let it run for several minutes to steam off any moisture, 3rd oil change, go for a short ride to burn off moisture, 4th oil change and yer good. That’s a very conservative number of changes, removes all doubt about internal water, 3 is probably enough.
 
russknight

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Wow, that’s a extensive write up with some great info. I’ll definitely be relocating the vent. Going to let it set for a few days to let the water and oil separate and then drain all the fluids and refill. Probably going to use cheaper oil for the first 2 flushes, then back to Honda OEM oil.

Have you heard any horror stories of a dealership declining warranty on electrical components due to water? Assuming I won’t tell them it was partially submerged, just crossing low water bridge 😬.

Assuming your dealer isn't reading this.... 🤣🤣
 
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