P1000 Heater Installed-- How to Burp

[OleRed]

I installed a universal heater under the hood and looking to burp. I let the machine warm up and then pulled the top hose (outflow) hoping coolant would come racing out of there but it didn't work. Just some dribbles... It did release a good amount of vacuum so I felt something got done. Can I just go ride this thing up and down some hills and it will eventually work itself out?

 

[Admin]

 

[Eltobgi]

 

[OleRed]

What volume of coolant should come out of bleeder bolt?

 

[Neohio]

It is common to elevate the front of the machine to help the air work itself out of the system.
Did you install any valves to control the flow of coolant? Make sure they are oriented correctly.

If you have a winch, life the front of the machine a few feet up a tree to help the air work free.

Where is the heater located? Is it lower than the radiator fill? If higher, you may never get it to bleed easily.

 

[OleRed]

I have valves in line ... one to shut off the heater loop in summer and the other to shut the direct loop off in the winter... forcing the heat through the newly created loop. I think the line that runs to the head is least resistance and taking the bulk of the flow right now. I could pull a line off and let it pump through while temp pinching the hose to the head? on a cold machine...

 

[OleRed]

It is common to elevate the front of the machine to help the air work itself out of the system.
Did you install any valves to control the flow of coolant? Make sure they are oriented correctly.

If you have a winch, life the front of the machine a few feet up a tree to help the air work free.

Where is the heater located? Is it lower than the radiator fill? If higher, you may never get it to bleed easily.

Heater is located above the radiator. i tucked it under the hood where the spare battery compartment is

 

[HondaTech]

Normally the bleeder bolt will be dry until the air bubble is worked out of the system, then it will flow out of the hole.

With your system being higher tha the radiator, the bleeder bolt is probably not going to be of any help.

 

[OleRed]

I cracked the bleeder bolt and it bubbled then another 1/4 turn and it launch outta therewith a stream of coolant behind it. I tightened it up figuring there wasn't much more that spot could offer. I do have descent heat coming out of vents but I am not convinced the heater is doing all it can. I can live with the level of heat coming out but I am more concerned that I maybe starving the coolant to somewhere else it is needed-- the oil cooler. Will that area get hurt if it only received 3/4 the coolant it originally was intended for?

I came out of water pump with a "Y" sending one leg to the heater core and one pointed back toward the cooler. I then took my leg coming from heater core and ran it down to side of engine and put another "Y"... one to receive directly from pump and the other to send coolant to oil cooler. I put a shutoff valve on each loop. I am running with direct loop closed and heat loop open

 

[Neohio]

Put some pinch off pliers on the oil cooler line to try and force some of the coolant thru your heater. Hopefully to bleed some of the air out of it.

If you want to spend some coin on a cool tool that should fix it completely.
Look into an airlift.
https://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-Airlift-Cooling-Checker/dp/B0002SRH5G/?tag=sxsweb24-20
This should fit into the small neck of a Japanese car. So it should work on the Pioneer.

 

[OleRed]

I would pinch off the hose to the head to do that... correct? If I punch the oil cooler line I would create a dead end.

 

[Neohio]

Purely speculating here.
But based on your description, I would be lead to believe you placed your "Y" on the oil cooler to water pump line?
If so, pinch off the hose going to the water pump. This should hopefully force all the coolant thru your heater.
It may help if you remove the hoses to the heater and prime it will coolant, then reconnect the lines.

If i misunderstood, feel free to help me.

 

[Neohio]

I am not sure where Honda says to install their factory heater. Personally, I would have connected a heater from the thermostat to the radiator hose. The diagram really doesn't show very well where the oil cooler gets it's coolant supply from.

 

[OleRed]

.... and I am officially regretting not getting a manual. I thought the coolant flow was opposite in that oil cooler line. This means I get to change the directions of the Y's and switch top and bottom hose on the heater core. Oufta....

 

[OleRed]

I don't think the heat core can flow enough coolant to pass the entire system efficiently. My guess is that is why folks tap into the smaller lines.

 

[Neohio]

.... and I am officially regretting not getting a manual. I thought the coolant flow was opposite in that oil cooler line. This means I get to change the directions of the Y's and switch top and bottom hose on the heater core. Oufta....

Check your flags/notifications..

 

[Neohio]

If you are familiar with a RV hot water tanke bypass system. I would build something along those lines.

You could restrict the flow on the left hand side of this picture to help force some thru the heater core.

 

[OleRed]

Now I know which way the coolant flows I am looking at this with a new perspective. I will report back tomorrow or later when I build up the energy to tear into that thing again. Just got it all buttoned up .....

 

[Firemedic530]

I plumbed mine into the 1/2"id hose that returns coolant from the oil cooler to the water pump. This is the hose that Honda shows for their heater. This hose circulates heat before the thermostat opens and provides a very hot heater box once the engine hits 2 bars. My heater is mounted to the bulk head on the floor in front of center seat. I do not have any duct work to lose heat through. I was able to bleed my heater before connecting the lines and then followed the burping procedure described with the nose in the air. I have not had any problems so far.

 

[Yakman]

I have valves in line ... one to shut off the heater loop in summer and the other to shut the direct loop off in the winter... forcing the heat through the newly created loop. I think the line that runs to the head is least resistance and taking the bulk of the flow right now. I could pull a line off and let it pump through while temp pinching the hose to the head? on a cold machine...

What kind of valves did you use and where can I find them? Thanks

 

[Yakman]

What kind of valves did you use and where can I find them? Thanks

Also can you elaborate on how the coolant flows in winter mode?