P1000 Great video explaining how differentials/traction controls work

Crow_Hunter

Crow_Hunter

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2:29 is the explanation of how the new i-4WD from Honda works. (The braking portion, not the open diffs)

8:18 is technically how the Torque biasing front diff works but you really should watch some of the other videos he has to explain those.


This video explains the difference between turf mode and locked rear differential and by extension the difference between how the locked front diff on the non-LE model and the torque biasing front diff on the new i-4WD will work.

A torsen (TORque SENsing) limited slip differential will work as a locked differential up to the point that the torque exceeds the limits built into the differential. At that point it will act like an open differential to protect the differential components from damage.

I believe the standard "torque biasing" front diff that Honda uses on their ATVs uses rollers/springs and will begin to slip once the resisting force (on the ground) exceeds the spring force on the rollers and will revert to an open diff to keep from "grenading the diff". That is why when you are riding a Honda ATV and it starts to get stuck the front tires will both pull/spin up to the point that one wheel gains good traction and then stop and the other will spin.

For reference the Visco-lok that Can-Am uses is a speed sensing front diff rather than a Torsen. When the speed between the two front wheels are different, the fluid in the differential will begin to behave like a solid rather than a liquid and lock the front wheels together (similar to how a torque convertor works). However, they will never actually be locked and will always turn at different speeds and over time the fluid will get hot causing it to "fade" and progressively lose its ability to lock the front diffs together. Over a long term the fluid will degrade to the point it no longer works and you have to replace the diff.

Hope this information helps some people make decisions.
 
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1BadDart

1BadDart

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I believe the standard "torque biasing" front diff that Honda uses on their ATVs uses rollers/springs and will begin to slip once the resisting force (on the ground) exceeds the spring force on the rollers and will revert to an open diff to keep from "grenading the diff". That is why when you are riding a Honda ATV and it starts to get stuck the front tires will both pull/spin up to the point that one wheel gains good traction and then stop and the other will spin.

If the new front is the same system I'd be curious to know how it will act when one front wheel is in a bind and really loaded and the other one is off the ground. Also how well will it work when the springs and rollers get some wear on them. Time will tell how it works out I suppose.
 
Crow_Hunter

Crow_Hunter

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If the new front is the same system I'd be curious to know how it will act when one front wheel is in a bind and really loaded and the other one is off the ground. Also how well will it work when the springs and rollers get some wear on them. Time will tell how it works out I suppose.

I assume, and you know what that spells, is that the brake will be applied to the wheel off the ground and the torque will be applied to the non spinning wheel and if the force resisting rotation is greater than the spring force, it will just act like an open diff and nothing will be damaged but you won't get out either.

In that situation it will probably be superior to a locked front diff since it will slip rather than breaking stuff in the diff housing.

Then again, you might just burn up the first gear clutch instead. ;)

I would think that the durability/longevity would be similar to that of the Honda ATV's front Diffs.
 
1BadDart

1BadDart

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I wonder how much "brake" the new system will apply? Also from what I've read the clutch would save the differential. Please don't get me wrong I think the new system will be great for trail riding and general use. I hope it works well for the extreme technical stuff that some guys like.
 
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