So both green wires to the 2 positive plugs on the back of the voltage meter?
Hey buddy one more question? If I’m hooking up a stinger relay and a fuse box, do I still need to use the one that came with the duel battery kit?No, that's be back assward. One green wire goes to the negative terminal of the dual volt meter. The second green wire is a spare, and can later be used as a key-power switched ground for whatever purpose you might need. For instance, you might use it to control a relay to key-switch aux battery power to a fuse/terminal block etc. BTW, the other two terminals of the dual voltmeter get a + wire from each battery.
If you did not use that relay to switch ground for the meter, the meter would always be on and creating a small current drain on the batteries. On another note, I added a momentary push button below my meter to apply a ground to the meter so I can check battery voltages without having to turn on the key. This is also advantageous as it shows battery voltage on the main bat with no load, for as soon as you turn key on, that battery will read a lower voltage due to system load. In the pic below, you can just make out the little push button below the meter and offset towards the left a bit.
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To check for function turn key on, turn headlights on, the light should go out after a minute. That lets you know it’s working correctly. It’s normal for it to stay lit for a bit.
Thanks it went out after I did that. I was worried I did something wrong lol. I appreciate the tipTo check for function turn key on, turn headlights on, the light should go out after a minute. That lets you know it’s working correctly. It’s normal for it to stay lit for a bit.
No problem. This is how it starts. The second fuse box makes installing the other stuff a bit easier.Thanks it went out after I did that. I was worried I did something wrong lol. I appreciate the tip
That will be here Saturday. I got a 12 slot fuse box but it was to big. So I order the 6 slot with a negative bus bar attached. I figured 6 would be plenty only plan on 1 53’’ light bar for the front, 12’ reverse light, Bluetooth sound bar and a winch. That about all the powered products I’ll have.No problem. This is how it starts. The second fuse box makes installing the other stuff a bit easier.
You can just run the red and black wires from the relay provided with the kit to your second fuse box. One green to back of voltmeter. The meter will then only be on when your fuse box is hot. This relay provides a ground to the voltmeter when powered. The stinger is going to control the hot side of your fuse box. That’s the way I have mine set up. I’m sure there are others.
I have mine set up with a master switch so the voltmeter displays when switched to the aux side. That gives me a reading on both without key on.Yessir, you can do that and it'll work fine. However, if you want to also put in a momentary push button to apply ground to the dual voltmeter, so you can easily check voltages without turning things on, I would power the relay to switch your Aux fuse block circuits with key-on positive - leaving the switched negative "clean". The switched ground can be used for another chore later. here's why:
Being able to apply momentary ground to your dual voltmeter allows you to check the "unloaded" voltage of your main battery. Let's say you want to check battery voltages, you turn the key on and both aux and main voltage will be displayed on the dual meter. However, the main battery voltage will be significantly lower than the aux due to the load applied to the main (all the computer, and other onboard stuff that the engine and machine needs will load down the main so you won't get an apples to apples comparison between the two battery voltages. Sure, you can live with that, but it's also nice to be able to check batteries without turning key on when you are not planning to use the machine.
Under the dual voltmeter is a little black button that applies ground to the neg. terminal of the meter.
Note that the momentary push button would still be doable if you use a common switched ground elsewhere, aside from the meter. To do that, and not have the little button "light up" other stuff, you'd just need to add an isolation diode.
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Same here. On a relay so if the factory battery takes a s*** l can tie the 2 together and make it start.I have mine set up with a master switch so the voltmeter displays when switched to the aux side. That gives me a reading on both without key on.