Dual battery meter question

[scottkooch]

So, I installed a dual battery this past winter with a dual battery meter. The meter worked fine, coming on right away at 13 or so volts and climbing on at a time to 14.1 or 14.2 volts. I added a SSV stereo a couple of weeks ago. I took the power for the stereo from the cigarette lighter using the supplied splitter. Now the meter takes a minute or so to energize, and when it does, it reads 14.1 or 14.2 on both batteries. Not a huge problem, just has got me wondering. Anyone have any ideas on why this changed?

 

[Admin]

 

[Hillbillytnt]

With key on and engine not running I get around 12.9 but once the engine fires up 14.1-14.3 is normal for mine with nothing on. Are you not getting a reading without the engine running. What kind of meter and how is its on/off controlled.

 

[trigger]

So, I installed a dual battery this past winter with a dual battery meter. The meter worked fine, coming on right away at 13 or so volts and climbing on at a time to 14.1 or 14.2 volts. I added a SSV stereo a couple of weeks ago. I took the power for the stereo from the cigarette lighter using the supplied splitter. Now the meter takes a minute or so to energize, and when it does, it reads 14.1 or 14.2 on both batteries. Not a huge problem, just has got me wondering. Anyone have any ideas on why this changed?

That's not a good place to pull power from for a stereo, that's a 10 amp circuit total I believe. You should run that back to the battery or a buss bar IMO.

 

[scottkooch]

That's not a good place to pull power from for a stereo, that's a 10 amp circuit total I believe. You should run that back to the battery or a buss bar IMO.

I was going to come off my keyed on fuse block, but figured since that was how the Honda approved stereo kit wanted it to be run, I would. Everything runs great, it's just my wondering mind is trying to figure out why the meter doesn't power up right away.

 

[scottkooch]

With key on and engine not running I get around 12.9 but once the engine fires up 14.1-14.3 is normal for mine with nothing on. Are you not getting a reading without the engine running. What kind of meter and how is its on/off controlled.

My meter used to come on right away at 13.1 for both meters, then top reading went up to 14.1 or so and bottom reading went up to the 14.1 reading, just like it is supposed to. Now, it doesn't turn on on till both readings are at the 14.1 measurement. It comes on when the key is turned on. Only thing I'm wondering about is why it doesn't energize until it gets to the 14.1 reading now.

 

[Hillbillytnt]

My meter used to come on right away at 13.1 for both meters, then top reading went up to 14.1 or so and bottom reading went up to the 14.1 reading, just like it is supposed to. Now, it doesn't turn on on till both readings are at the 14.1 measurement. It comes on when the key is turned on. Only thing I'm wondering about is why it doesn't energize until it gets to the 14.1 reading now.

Ya something isn’t rt. I’d try going to your key on fuse block to power the sound bar. I’m running a marine radio with 4 speakers and ran my power from the hot side of my stinger because I needed a constant to keep the presets

 

[scottkooch]

Ok, so here's a update on the situation. A few days ago I went to turn on the dome light which is on a switch with constant power applied to it and it would not turn on. The second battery isolator must not be letting power flow thru it until the main battery is up to full charge. I took the radio off the cigarette power splitter and added it to my switched power fuse block everything is back to normal and working as i should. As a bonus, I'm getting faster at taking off and putting the windshield and cowling back on.

 

[trigger]

I was going to come off my keyed on fuse block, but figured since that was how the Honda approved stereo kit wanted it to be run, I would. Everything runs great, it's just my wondering mind is trying to figure out why the meter doesn't power up right away.

Not sure how the Honda OEM stereo is set up but there's usually a wire that goes to a key on power source, just as a switch. Then another one that goes to constant power as the actual power wire. 🤷‍♂️

 

[Hillbillytnt]

Ok, so here's a update on the situation. A few days ago I went to turn on the dome light which is on a switch with constant power applied to it and it would not turn on. The second battery isolator must not be letting power flow thru it until the main battery is up to full charge. I took the radio off the cigarette power splitter and added it to my switched power fuse block everything is back to normal and working as i should. As a bonus, I'm getting faster at taking off and putting the windshield and cowling back

Ya that what the isolator should do. It opens up and makes the connection after the main hits 13 something. If it a true the blue light indicates the connection is made.

 

[scottkooch]

Not sure how the Honda OEM stereo is set up but there's usually a wire that goes to a key on power source, just as a switch. Then another one that goes to constant power as the actual power wire. 🤷‍♂️

It is set up with only keyed on power from a splitter on the cigarette lighter wire.

 

[scottkooch]

Ya that what the isolator should do. It opens up and makes the connection after the main hits 13 something. If it a true the blue light indicates the connection is made.

The isolator has worked perfectly all along. Just trying to figure out why splitting the cigarette lighter power would not let the power get to my powered on all the time accessories. Just weird. I think I'll just keep it this way and go riding up in the great north country of Wisconsin all weekend.