P1000 Driving tips beyond the owners manual

[AndyC]

So I’ve got a ‘21 year model and I’m looking for tips and suggestions beyond the owners manual to prolong clutch life. I’ve seen a lot of the old posts about mostly 2016 year models and having clutch issues with low miles. Does the 2021 have the same clutches and potential for issues under possible driver error? I try to remember to shift to low gear when I’m driving around through the woods, especially when it’s slick from a rain and I’m not driving fast. Just looking for tips and suggestions so I don’t burn a clutch. I’ve got 1,600 miles so far and it seems to be running just fine.

 

[Admin]

 

[Russ989]

So I’ve got a ‘21 year model and I’m looking for tips and suggestions beyond the owners manual to prolong clutch life. I’ve seen a lot of the old posts about mostly 2016 year models and having clutch issues with low miles. Does the 2021 have the same clutches and potential for issues under possible driver error? I try to remember to shift to low gear when I’m driving around through the woods, especially when it’s slick from a rain and I’m not driving fast. Just looking for tips and suggestions so I don’t burn a clutch. I’ve got 1,600 miles so far and it seems to be running just fine.

Run it in low when crawling, driving slow or what you’ve already mentioned. Also, don’t be too easy on the throttle in reverse, you need to be around 2300 rpm for the clutch to fully engage.

 

[Mark in Northern Iowa]

Information to help clutch longevity with your ride.
Things that tear out our clutches:
1) high gear pulling to heavy of a load, lugging in high
. . . new drivers not knowing that LOW is the way to go
2) holding the vehicle stopped on an uphill slope with the transmission and not the brake
. . . clutches are just sitting there spinning, burning
3) shifting between high and reverse, or high and low, when not stopped and engine at idle
. . . owners try to rock themselves out of being stuck. Bang, bang, clutch rebuild time
4) or when stuck they accelerate slowly
. . . If the tires are not moving/spinning, STOP!
.
Something I have found myself doing, is goosing the accelerator when starting out.
Not enough to throw you backward hard, but enough that I know the clutches are engaged/locked and not slipping.
And for sure in reverse when I plow snow. I would rather slip the tires a smidge and make sure lockup happens, because reverse on my 2018 is, in my opinion, to high.
.
And do NOT..... @Brap-tor

.or @JenElio

.
And for sure do not use it as a submarine.
hahahaha
.
Have a good day

 

[HBarlow]

The DCT is essentially two manual transmissions with two computer-controlled clutches - one clutch for each. It drives like a conventional automotive hydraulic automatic transmission but it's quite different.

The key to long life of the DCT is to always use enough throttle move the machine. Never use the throttle pedal to hold the machine on a slope or to stall it against a load, If the engine is above idle rpm but the machine is not moving, the 1-3-5 clutch is slipping.

Slipping the clutches causes premature wear and early failure.

 

[NTCPrezJB]

So I’ve got a ‘21 year model and I’m looking for tips and suggestions beyond the owners manual to prolong clutch life. I’ve seen a lot of the old posts about mostly 2016 year models and having clutch issues with low miles. Does the 2021 have the same clutches and potential for issues under possible driver error? I try to remember to shift to low gear when I’m driving around through the woods, especially when it’s slick from a rain and I’m not driving fast. Just looking for tips and suggestions so I don’t burn a clutch. I’ve got 1,600 miles so far and it seems to be running just fine.

To add to what’s already been said…there was product improvement to the clutch cover. Your 2021 definitely has the updated clutch cover. There’s definitely the exact details of that on here and probably a ton of guys that can tell you off the top of their heads but that change seemed to help a lot the early clutch issue woes in the P1k’s.

 

[AndyC]

Glad to hear they made some changes! I try to remember to stop and shift to low when I know I’m gonna be in slower moving scenarios. A lot of times my passing through the woods I’ll have it in low, but the rpm’s are at the upper range of low. To the point that even on sub 20 degree temperature days the radiator fan will kick on and off. Though the temp gauge has never gone above two bars.

 

[Bama-Daniel]

I agree with all mentioned above.

A question I’ve wondered and have searched but haven’t seen anything is does a tune help the clutches?

 

[CID]

Glad to hear they made some changes! I try to remember to stop and shift to low when I know I’m gonna be in slower moving scenarios. A lot of times my passing through the woods I’ll have it in low, but the rpm’s are at the upper range of low. To the point that even on sub 20 degree temperature days the radiator fan will kick on and off. Though the temp gauge has never gone above two bars.

The fan is supposed to cycle in normal operation. If your fan isn't cycling, like in the winter, you should cover some of your radiator until it DOES start cycling (I know yours is cycling below 20*, that's good). That will ensure that the engine oil is getting up to temp and burning off the inevitable condensation.

Many of us are using Honda's HP4 with moly for the subtrans, it helps with High/Low transitions. There's pictures of that oil linked in my sig (Talon and Pioneer use the same base engine). Do NOT put it in your engine, it's not wet clutch friendly.

 

[Remington]

Ahhh $hit! Just drive it like you stole it!

 

[CID]

Check your fluid levels, many Talons have come with only 2/3 of the subtrans capacity. I don't know if the Pioneers have had the same problem or not. 🤔

 

[Ohio4x4]

So I’ve got a ‘21 year model and I’m looking for tips and suggestions beyond the owners manual to prolong clutch life. I’ve seen a lot of the old posts about mostly 2016 year models and having clutch issues with low miles. Does the 2021 have the same clutches and potential for issues under possible driver error? I try to remember to shift to low gear when I’m driving around through the woods, especially when it’s slick from a rain and I’m not driving fast. Just looking for tips and suggestions so I don’t burn a clutch. I’ve got 1,600 miles so far and it seems to be running just fine.

High or low is irrelevant in my opinion. If you have the power to open the throttle and get above 3k rpm it's fine. I run high gear most of the time. I've plowed, drug logs, other machines, and wheeled in all kinds off terrain in high. I thought I had clutch issues last year only to find I was over due on an oil change and it allows the clutch to drag. If you use any bit of common sense and don't just hold the throttle open under load with no wheels spin you'll have no issues. My 17 has been bullet proof as far as clutch and Trans issues are concerned.

 

[lee]

It’s a wet clutch that is properly oil cooled (now).
don’t even give it a second thought.
I used to get after my wife for holding the SxS using the clutch (slight engine rpm holding the vehicle from rolling backwards).
With the update I don’t bother anymore.
If the clutch gets hot there is a warning light (on the 2016 the warning light is labeled “engine temp”).

Do a search, I think @HondaTech said they haven’t seen a burnt clutch with the update (it I’m wrong let me know).

edit: What @Ohio4x4 said, if anyone knows how to beat on a SxS it’s him.

 

[tbaker]

The fan is supposed to cycle in normal operation. If your fan isn't cycling, like in the winter, you should cover some of your radiator until it DOES start cycling (I know yours is cycling below 20*, that's good). That will ensure that the engine oil is getting up to temp and burning off the inevitable condensation.

Many of us are using Honda's HP4 with moly for the subtrans, it helps with High/Low transitions. There's pictures of that oil linked in my sig (Talon and Pioneer use the same base engine). Do NOT put it in your engine, it's not wet clutch friendly.

I just changed my sub transmission oil and I used Mobil 1 racing 4t advanced full synthetic 10w40 motorcycle oil what’s your thoughts on that but I used Honda oil in the engine

 

[Remington]

Uh Oh 🤭 heads up! Oil Brand/Type question asked!
Things bout to get real!😂🥳

 

[HondaTech]

It’s a wet clutch that is properly oil cooled (now).
don’t even give it a second thought.
I used to get after my wife for holding the SxS using the clutch (slight engine rpm holding the vehicle from rolling backwards).
With the update I don’t bother anymore.
If the clutch gets hot there is a warning light (on the 2016 the warning light is labeled “engine temp”).

Do a search, I think @HondaTech said they haven’t seen a burnt clutch with the update (it I’m wrong let me know).

edit: What @Ohio4x4 said, if anyone knows how to beat on a SxS it’s him.

Ive seen multiple after they changed the cover. I can destroy one in the parking lot if I wanted to.

 

[tbaker]

Uh Oh 🤭 heads up! Oil Brand/Type question asked!
Things bout to get real!😂🥳

I just want to use the best I can get

 

[Adam490]

I agree with all mentioned above.

A question I’ve wondered and have searched but haven’t seen anything is does a tune help the clutches?

It can. The factory tune doesn't let the clutches lockup hard and allows a bit of slip to prevent people from crying about harsh shifts. You can play with a lot of the clutch engagement (torque management, pressures, etc) using the DynoJet software. Well... you used to be able to anyway. I tried to pull up C3 to show you a screenshot of what you're able to configure and it looks like they've got it all locked down now. f***ing EPA....

 

[Remington]

I just want to use the best I can get

I get it!
just when theres an oil type or brand question, the thread usually blows up like Hiroshima 🤣
theres so many opinions on this its like presenting a bill to congress for a debate lol. If u use the search, it will blow your mind🤯🥳
Here is a start, without seeing your bottle of oil u used, as long as it said suitable for wet clutches, your prob ok. Im not gonna tell u what Ive used in my 3 rigs starting in 16’ cuz I dont want to start a dumpster fire 🤣🔥🔥🚒
Shoot me a pm if u really want to know!

 

[DRZRon1]

simple

-drive it like ya stole it

-don't pull imovable objects such as rocks or your moron buddy up to the belly pan in mud

-once your tires stop spinning with power applied, clutch is trying to slip and burn

 

[AndyC]

The fan is supposed to cycle in normal operation. If your fan isn't cycling, like in the winter, you should cover some of your radiator until it DOES start cycling (I know yours is cycling below 20*, that's good). That will ensure that the engine oil is getting up to temp and burning off the inevitable condensation.

Many of us are using Honda's HP4 with moly for the subtrans, it helps with High/Low transitions. There's pictures of that oil linked in my sig (Talon and Pioneer use the same base engine). Do NOT put it in your engine, it's not wet clutch friendly.

Ive seen multiple after they changed the cover. I can destroy one in the parking lot if I wanted to.

that HP4M, do you all use 10w30 or 10w40? I ride in all temperature ranges from down in the single digits and teens up to 100 or more degrees.