P500 CV boot from back of the engine

[mjager]

Has anyone had to replace this? I could use any tips or methods you have.

Thanks

 

[Admin]

 

[Neohio]

I want to say most guys move the front diff forward on the machine to gain access to the front prop shaft.
Other than that, I am not much help.

 

[DG Rider]

Has anyone had to replace this? I could use any tips or methods you have.

Thanks

View attachment 128980

Did it a few months back. It was a b**** until I realized what I was doing wrong.

Remove the rear caliper and mounting bracket. They can be done as an assembly, and will slip right back on if you don't fettle with the brakes or knock the pads out.

Remove the mounting bolts for the diff. Once out, a couple of long screwdrivers or pry bars will help lift the diff up and back (remember, it's aluminum, so don't go crazy).
You do not have to remove the rear axles, but this is the area where I had issue...so you may want to after you read this...
After fighting with the rear diff for probably an hour, and using all types of profanity, I was getting ready to put the machine back together and start unbolting the engine. Then I realized what was going on: the rear axles were binding in their travel. The light bulb went on and I lowered the machine down off the Jack, and voila! The diff now went just far enough back to remove the shaft. I also have the brake disc loose in an attempt to try and get it out but I don't think you actually have to do this.

The end of the shaft nearest the brake rotor has a spring in it under that boot. The other end is just splined and goes into the u-joint, but it does have a o ring seal as does the other side going into the u-joint from the engine. These can be stuck in place a bit, but it all comes apart.

Personally I would regrease everything while it's out and maybe consider replacing the small boot and little rubber bands that hold it in place. Mine were good shape so I left them. Thise little rubber bands can be frustrating to try and get back on, especially with greasy hands...LOL!

The boot and clamps are pretty cheap. On first looking at the clamps, they looks like those band it type clamps that take a special tool, but this is not the case, installing with hand tools. The clamps just fold over. Pretty smart.

I forgot to install one of the clamps...duh! So while I fought with his for a couple hours of first Time around, once I realized the axles were binding and let it down on its own weight, I did it again in like 30 minutes.

 

[mjager]

Did it a few months back. It was a b**** until I realized what I was doing wrong.

Remove the rear caliper and mounting bracket. They can be done as an assembly, and will slip right back on if you don't fettle with the brakes or knock the pads out.

Remove the mounting bolts for the diff. Once out, a couple of long screwdrivers or pry bars will help lift the diff up and back (remember, it's aluminum, so don't go crazy).
You do not have to remove the rear axles, but this is the area where I had issue...so you may want to after you read this...
After fighting with the rear diff for probably an hour, and using all types of profanity, I was getting ready to put the machine back together and start unbolting the engine. Then I realized what was going on: the rear axles were binding in their travel. The light bulb went on and I lowered the machine down off the Jack, and voila! The diff now went just far enough back to remove the shaft. I also have the brake disc loose in an attempt to try and get it out but I don't think you actually have to do this.

The end of the shaft nearest the brake rotor has a spring in it under that boot. The other end is just splined and goes into the u-joint, but it does have a o ring seal as does the other side going into the u-joint from the engine. These can be stuck in place a bit, but it all comes apart.

Personally I would regrease everything while it's out and maybe consider replacing the small boot and little rubber bands that hold it in place. Mine were good shape so I left them. Thise little rubber bands can be frustrating to try and get back on, especially with greasy hands...LOL!

The boot and clamps are pretty cheap. On first looking at the clamps, they looks like those band it type clamps that take a special tool, but this is not the case, installing with hand tools. The clamps just fold over. Pretty smart.

I forgot to install one of the clamps...duh! So while I fought with his for a couple hours of first Time around, once I realized the axles were binding and let it down on its own weight, I did it again in like 30 minutes.

Thanks, so your saying do the complete job with the wheels on the ground?

 

[DG Rider]

Thanks, so your saying do the complete job with the wheels on the ground?

Just when you get ready to move the diff back to pull the shaft.
Or you can pull the axles and do it all in the air. They do get close to the frame uprights, so be careful with the boots.