P1000 100-5 LE runs rough and here is everything I tried.....

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jlwardn

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May 25, 2020
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West Michigan
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  1. 1000-5
I just bought a used 2017 Pioneer 1000-5 LE. The previous owner and I took it for a short test run. It seemed to run fine but I have never owned a SxS before. I go to use it a couple days later and it is running rough, no power and lots of popping and backfiring on idle and trying to accelerate. I emailed the previous owner and they said....probably water in the tank. I then removed the fuel from the tank and put in a bottle of dry gas(just in case there were drops of water left) and 5 gallons of ethanol free fuel. Let it idle for a while and it never changed. Since it has an extended warranty on it I took it to the dealer for the Heat Campaign insulation Kit and to check out why it was running rough and had squeaky steering. They had it almost 2 weeks and said that it had a hole in the exhaust near the manifold and that is why it is running rough and popping. They won't cover it on the warranty because they say it is rusty. It was sold new in Sept of 2018.....not even 2 yrs old. I was mad so I took it home. I removed skid plate and exhaust has NO hole and it solid....no rust. WTH. I then though maybe I did not get enough water out. I took out the fuel sending unit and completely removed all fuel so the tank was bone dry. I put in 4 gallons of ethanol free fuel. I let it idle for 20 minutes and did some loops in the parking lot for another 25. It never cleared up. I tried for 2 days. I ordered new spark plugs and air filter just to make sure I was not missing anything. After replacing plugs it still runs exactly the same.....idles rough and when you give it acceleration it stalls. If you gently push on the gas you can get it to go and shift but still lots of popping/backfiring going on and it sputters around with hardly no power.(yes seat belt was on) Before I bought it there was oil change done and previous owner said it ran great. I feel like I got taken a little bit but the most frustrating thing is that I can't figure it out. I don't buy that replacing a exhaust pipe for $850 that is solid with no hole will fix this issue.
Any ideas? I am new to this forum and this is my first SXS. I have read almost every thread up to page 20.....I am not seeing a common issue like I am seeing now. Would love help and advice
 
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NTCPrezJB

NTCPrezJB

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Some common answers are likely to be....
  • Check all your ground wires.
  • Try a fresh battery.
  • Wiggle the fuel injector wires (prone to issues and replacements are available at the club store) to see if it worsens/improves.
 
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Ericthered

Eric The Red
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  1. 1000-3
My 2017 1000-3 did the same thing. Of the three grounds on the engine 2 were so loose you could spin them with your fingers and the other was almost tight. Just tightened them up. Use a wrench so you can feel the tightness. Two years later, never had problem again. Good luck.
 
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jlwardn

New Member
May 25, 2020
11
13
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West Michigan
Ownership

  1. 1000-5
When I changed the plugs they looked completely normal and almost like they were brand new. There are no codes, lights or error messages being displayed. Battery has correct voltage. I will check some of the other ideas you guys have given. Thank you. I did call the service manager and explained how I brought it there and they had it almost 2 weeks and how I got it back with nothing done. They still insist that there is a hole in the exhaust near the manifold but now they are willing to warranty it also warranty the ball joint making noise. They told me they would call me when the parts arrived. It has been over a week and no call. I'ved owned this SxS for 3 weeks and only got to use it once for about and hour.
 
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jlwardn

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May 25, 2020
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West Michigan
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  1. 1000-5
Today's recap:
Battery - full charge no issues
New Spark Plugs - Old one looked great
New Airfilter - Old one was dirty but normal for the miles
No error codes.
No grounds were loose.
Inspection and wiggling injector wires nothing improved or got worse.
When engine running I unplugged some coil wires. One coil unplugged made the motor sound different but continued to run. Unplugging the other coil made it immediately quit running. Swapped wires/coils and the problem seemed to move coils. Looks like it is a coil issue. No one has one in stock and it is about a week to get one......so bummed
 
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BigOL3

BigOL3

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  1. 1000-5
Today's recap:
Battery - full charge no issues
New Spark Plugs - Old one looked great
New Airfilter - Old one was dirty but normal for the miles
No error codes.
No grounds were loose.
Inspection and wiggling injector wires nothing improved or got worse.
When engine running I unplugged some coil wires. One coil unplugged made the motor sound different but continued to run. Unplugging the other coil made it immediately quit running. Swapped wires/coils and the problem seemed to move coils. Looks like it is a coil issue. No one has one in stock and it is about a week to get one......so bummed
Hopefully you at least found the problem.
 
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jlwardn

New Member
May 25, 2020
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West Michigan
Ownership

  1. 1000-5
Well it is at the dealer again. They installed the new exhaust pipes and guess what....It did not fix the issues. Then they replace the spark plugs even though I replaced them a few days before with plugs I bought from them. They did not even check the coil which is what I told them to check. There are no coils in stock nor any at the Honda warehouse. I have owned this machine for a month now and only got to ride in for 1.5 hrs.
Anyone have a coil? I need the longer one from the front cylinder. Thanks for all the help guys.
 
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BigOL3

BigOL3

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Well it is at the dealer again. They installed the new exhaust pipes and guess what....It did not fix the issues. Then they replace the spark plugs even though I replaced them a few days before with plugs I bought from them. They did not even check the coil which is what I told them to check. There are no coils in stock nor any at the Honda warehouse. I have owned this machine for a month now and only got to ride in for 1.5 hrs.
Anyone have a coil? I need the longer one from the front cylinder. Thanks for all the help guys.
Tell them to pull a coil off a new Pioneer just to find if that is the problem.
 
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Ericthered

Eric The Red
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Have you pulled the screen in fuel tank. If previous owner left tank less than full for long periods it will corrode the screen and hamper fuel flow. Hope This is it. Will be a no $ fix if it is. Good luck.As you have checked the obvious and are not the original owner this could be it.
 
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jlwardn

New Member
May 25, 2020
11
13
3
West Michigan
Ownership

  1. 1000-5
It's not fixed and not the coils. The machine acts like it is running on one cylinder. Everything pointed to a coil. New coil and still runs exactly the same. Now the dealer is ordering fuel injectors. They are throwing parts at it guessing. They have been trying to figure it out since memorial day. The shop foreman is in disbelief since they never have issues like this in a Honda.
 
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Ericthered

Eric The Red
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As you had a complete shut-down on the coil move I would guess that the wiring harness to the coil is faulty. Try swapping the coils again or wiggle wires to the one that made it quit last time. I have worked with the throw parts at it bunch when in the military. They can't get an ohm/voltmeter out and actually troubleshoot anything. As a side note, once had a C-5 aircraft that the front doors wouldn't close.Not really flyable like that. Electricians worked for 3 days only breaking other parts. I was moose hunting at the time, about 35 miles west of Anchorage, Alaska. They sent a rescue helicopter to get me. Turned out a single pin had pushed back whenever it was attached to the valve. This may be your problem. I would look carefully at the back of the pins while connecting it to the coil. If it does back out just flare out the little ears on the pin and push in till it clicks. Good luck, and really sorry this has happened to you. It's a bummer that shouldn't happen to anyone. I'll bet a beer the guy who sold it to you experienced the same problem.
 
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1Ktrailrider

1Ktrailrider

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Dec 1, 2018
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  1. 1000-5
Dang. This sounds like the issue I had. Took me 3weeks, working on it every night to find the problem. It would stall under load. Idle was rough. At first it would back fire while coasting, then it got worse and would pop and sputter. I had no codes. I did the plugs and checked the coils with the SERVICE MANUAL that I would cram down the dealers throat. ( You can check the coils with an ohm meter. The Honda service manual tells you how to do it and gives the numbers within tolerance. And they should know that). I did the fuel tank drain and fuel pressure and even did a compression test because at times it seemed like it was designated to one cylinder. The plugs looked fine but one was Sometimes wet with fuel up the threads. I checked the stupid fuel injector wires everyone complains about. Finally while all the plastic was off. I used a long screwdriver like a stethoscope. Placing the end ontop of the fuel injector, I stretched over and turned the key to ACC and listened to how they clicked. One sounded very different than the other. One was clearly clicking faster and solid, the other was faint and faded. The dealer told me that's not possible, they are supposed to sound like that, it's normal, blah, blah. 2 hour round trip, and $76. I know the frustrations. I hope this helps.
 
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