Talon 10,000 Mile Report

[hondabob]

I couldn’t be happier with my Talon R. Honda did a great job developing the Talon. Yes it needs some improvements especially with the air filter intake location. Its easy to make improvements and really difficult to develop an all new product. My buddies with the Talon X are not happy with the suspension but on the R we can adjust the tender spring cross over rings up so the cross over is near tender spring coil bind to get a way better wash board ride.

Both front dif axle seals started leaking at bit over 7,000 miles. My dealer ordered the new Dif seals and made an appointment for me to bring it in. I brought it in at 9 and got it back at noon. Easy to get happy with service like that. There is no reason why most dealers can’t do the same on simple easy repairs. Most don’t have room to store the side by sides so it helps them too. They may need to charge you for the repair parts then refund your money after you get the repair done if it’s a warranty repair.

My under roof UNI pre filter needed to be cleaned now. I will clean it in the future at 3,000 to 5,000 miles. Just being in clean air makes a huge difference. My stock air filter is still show room new at 10,000 miles. My Talon still runs great and top speed with the 30’s is 78.5 at the rev limiter at 2,500 feet elevation with the dirty pre filter.

I have 7,000 miles on the Tusk Terrabite tires and I expect they will last for another 4,000 miles, then I will install 28’s. It pulls 5th and 6th gears noticeable better with 28’s in the sand washes. Two buddies are getting the Turbo and I may have to have one too.

Its still difficult to shift it into low range on cold start but it hasn’t gotten any worse so I plan on getting it fixed at 20,000 miles. Also the drive shaft seal at the sub trans started leaking at a bit over 9,000 miles. It’s a slight leak so will get that fixed at 20,000 miles before I sell it. I need it everyday and if I really need low range on cold start I can make it happen but it’s a PITA. After about 10 minutes of warmup it shifts ok. I use low range on all the low speed rock crawling and on the tough technical sections I always use manual mode so it won’t shift at a bad time.

One of the Talon guys posted he wanted a lower idle speed. After thinking about it that may be the problem on cold starts or at least add to it on some Talons. The idle is slightly higher on a cold start. Another difference is the Talon clutches and some sub trans parts are different then the Pioneer 1000.

We take turns opening and closing the gates. I got lucky and both RZR buddies were up front on a tight sand wash Cow section. They cleaned out the Land Mines real good. I just hate to get my talon dirty especially with Cow Poo.

 

[Admin]

 

[CID]

Are you oiling your Uni filter and squeezing out the excess oil? I've been using oiled foam filters for over 50 years and yours looks overly dry. When oiled the dust will look wet, not like yours. The Uni instructions warn to be sure to oil the filter before use. Foam filters have been used in dirt bikes since the 70's but are dependent on being oiled to work properly.

It's hard to over oil them, since they're open cell foam, excess oil will drain to the bottom and make a mess out of yer fender but that's better than letting the dust through. I know you're happy with the performance but it can be much better with proper oiling.

I have my Uni right here, waiting for me to copy your snorkel idea (keeping the stock air intake chamber).

 

[hondabob]

Your right and I will saturate it this time. When its the main filter I always saturate it in a bag. I did oil it fairly good but I didn't want it to drip in the cab plus it is just a pre filter. .

 

[CID]

Uni seems to have changed the 3"er, it has a hard end on it now and squeezing will be much more difficult than yours. I can see mine dripping a little once installed but it will be vertical, right behind the passenger seat - maybe the oil will drip inside the snorkel - which could be a long term mess, I'll see. Thanks for the NAPA hose part number.

 

[hondabob]

Uni UP6325ST 2 stage pod 3" ID x 6" HGT may have a cage inside and a hard end, not sure I made 5 snorkels for the guys.
Uni UP 6300ST2 stage pod 3" ID x 6" HGT has a soft end with a spring inside.

 

[CID]

Thanks Bob, I'll order another because I don't like the hard end. It does have a cage inside.

 

[Ezgoin]

I couldn’t be happier with my Talon R. Honda did a great job developing the Talon. Yes it needs some improvements especially with the air filter intake location. Its easy to make improvements and really difficult to develop an all new product. My buddies with the Talon X are not happy with the suspension but on the R we can adjust the tender spring cross over rings up so the cross over is near tender spring coil bind to get a way better wash board ride.

Both front dif axle seals started leaking at bit over 7,000 miles. My dealer ordered the new Dif seals and made an appointment for me to bring it in. I brought it in at 9 and got it back at noon. Easy to get happy with service like that. There is no reason why most dealers can’t do the same on simple easy repairs. Most don’t have room to store the side by sides so it helps them too. They may need to charge you for the repair parts then refund your money after you get the repair done if it’s a warranty repair.

My under roof UNI pre filter needed to be cleaned now. I will clean it in the future at 3,000 to 5,000 miles. Just being in clean air makes a huge difference. My stock air filter is still show room new at 10,000 miles. My Talon still runs great and top speed with the 30’s is 78.5 at the rev limiter at 2,500 feet elevation with the dirty pre filter.

I have 7,000 miles on the Tusk Terrabite tires and I expect they will last for another 4,000 miles, then I will install 28’s. It pulls 5th and 6th gears noticeable better with 28’s in the sand washes. Two buddies are getting the Turbo and I may have to have one too.

Its still difficult to shift it into low range on cold start but it hasn’t gotten any worse so I plan on getting it fixed at 20,000 miles. Also the drive shaft seal at the sub trans started leaking at a bit over 9,000 miles. It’s a slight leak so will get that fixed at 20,000 miles before I sell it. I need it everyday and if I really need low range on cold start I can make it happen but it’s a PITA. After about 10 minutes of warmup it shifts ok. I use low range on all the low speed rock crawling and on the tough technical sections I always use manual mode so it won’t shift at a bad time.

One of the Talon guys posted he wanted a lower idle speed. After thinking about it that may be the problem on cold starts or at least add to it on some Talons. The idle is slightly higher on a cold start. Another difference is the Talon clutches and some sub trans parts are different then the Pioneer 1000.

We take turns opening and closing the gates. I got lucky and both RZR buddies were up front on a tight sand wash Cow section. They cleaned out the Land Mines real good. I just hate to get my talon dirty especially with Cow Poo.


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Great to know your at 10,000 and still going strong with only minor wear issues! I doubt I’ll ever see 10,000 on mine, maybe 5,000 if I live long enough!
Question about your pre filter: when you cut in the snorkel how did you deal with the factory inlet tube inside the air box? Did you just plug it off? Also, did you consider a K&N style cone filter as opposed to the open cell foam and if so why did you go with the foam? Less restrictive?
Thanks!

 

[JsheII3]

What do you do @hondabob that you rack up many miles, so quickly... Talon w/ 10k, P1000-3 w/ 20k. ???

 

[hondabob]

I use the factory intake tube. I trimmed it down to 3 inches. I posted it step by step on one of my posts.

 

[hondabob]

I go riding nearly everyday. I put 20,000 on my 2016 Yamaha YXZ too. I'm also doing 40 to 50 mile night rides now too. We go fast most of the time so we get 80 to over 100 miles. My buddy has a 2019 RZR turbo and has over 12,000 miles on it. It would be more but it breaks and spends a lot of time in the shop.

 

[JACKAL]

I couldn’t be happier with my Talon R. Honda did a great job developing the Talon. Yes it needs some improvements especially with the air filter intake location. Its easy to make improvements and really difficult to develop an all new product. My buddies with the Talon X are not happy with the suspension but on the R we can adjust the tender spring cross over rings up so the cross over is near tender spring coil bind to get a way better wash board ride.

Both front dif axle seals started leaking at bit over 7,000 miles. My dealer ordered the new Dif seals and made an appointment for me to bring it in. I brought it in at 9 and got it back at noon. Easy to get happy with service like that. There is no reason why most dealers can’t do the same on simple easy repairs. Most don’t have room to store the side by sides so it helps them too. They may need to charge you for the repair parts then refund your money after you get the repair done if it’s a warranty repair.

My under roof UNI pre filter needed to be cleaned now. I will clean it in the future at 3,000 to 5,000 miles. Just being in clean air makes a huge difference. My stock air filter is still show room new at 10,000 miles. My Talon still runs great and top speed with the 30’s is 78.5 at the rev limiter at 2,500 feet elevation with the dirty pre filter.

I have 7,000 miles on the Tusk Terrabite tires and I expect they will last for another 4,000 miles, then I will install 28’s. It pulls 5th and 6th gears noticeable better with 28’s in the sand washes. Two buddies are getting the Turbo and I may have to have one too.

Its still difficult to shift it into low range on cold start but it hasn’t gotten any worse so I plan on getting it fixed at 20,000 miles. Also the drive shaft seal at the sub trans started leaking at a bit over 9,000 miles. It’s a slight leak so will get that fixed at 20,000 miles before I sell it. I need it everyday and if I really need low range on cold start I can make it happen but it’s a PITA. After about 10 minutes of warmup it shifts ok. I use low range on all the low speed rock crawling and on the tough technical sections I always use manual mode so it won’t shift at a bad time.

One of the Talon guys posted he wanted a lower idle speed. After thinking about it that may be the problem on cold starts or at least add to it on some Talons. The idle is slightly higher on a cold start. Another difference is the Talon clutches and some sub trans parts are different then the Pioneer 1000.

We take turns opening and closing the gates. I got lucky and both RZR buddies were up front on a tight sand wash Cow section. They cleaned out the Land Mines real good. I just hate to get my talon dirty especially with Cow Poo.


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As always, thanks for your informative real world experience with the high miles you put on machines. Such a great change from the people who always have to post about the problems they have usually caused by the person occupying the drivers seat putting out only half the story behind the problem they are complaining about.

 

[CID]

@hondabob Is it necessary to remove the rear fender parts like you posted above to install the snorkel riser like you did (reducing the air intake box air horn diameter to 3")? Do you recommend fender removal/worth the disassembly effort? I have no idea how involved it might be. Is the air box 'hat' removable or am I cutting it off to get at the air horn bell?

 

[hondabob]

Just the inner panel needs to be removed. The rear fender doesn't need to be removed. The Hat is removable by removing one push pin. I think I removed the vent panel.

 

[ehart814]

@hondabob maybe you've been asked before, but I didn't see it. Are you using Honda lubricants in your 1000 and Talon? I run Amsoil in everything I own except my Pioneer 1000. At around 1500 miles and so far I have just stuck with GN4. With your high mileage use I would be interested in knowing what you use since you haven't experienced any engine or transmission issues. I will be putting Amsoil in my differentials, I just haven't had a chance yet. Most of my miles so far are road miles and I haven't been in any water yet so I haven't been quick to change out the diffs.... thanks

 

[hondabob]

I use Mobile One 10w40 synethic motorcycle oil in my Talon and also in my Pioneer 1000 that I put 19,000 miles on. I use Valvoline 75w90 synethic in the dif's. Any good motorcycle oil is ok, I just like the better synethic oil's. I use Valvoline 10w40 synethic motorcycle oil in my 2016 Yamaha YXZ, got 20,000 miles on it and it still runs like new. I think the important thing is to change the oil on time. My sub trans is difficult to get into low on my 19 so I use 0w40 synethic motorcycle oil in the sub trans. GN4 is good and Amsoil is better.

 

[CID]

Great to know your at 10,000 and still going strong with only minor wear issues! I doubt I’ll ever see 10,000 on mine, maybe 5,000 if I live long enough!
Question about your pre filter: when you cut in the snorkel how did you deal with the factory inlet tube inside the air box? Did you just plug it off? Also, did you consider a K&N style cone filter as opposed to the open cell foam and if so why did you go with the foam? Less restrictive?
Thanks!

I'll answer this from my point of view. When tested against other filter mediums, the K&N consistently fares poorly. Oiled foam does a much better job at filtering out smaller particles like silt dust. There are several online comparison tests - I have yet to see one where a K&N was competitive.

 

[QuadMan747]

I go riding nearly everyday. I put 20,000 on my 2016 Yamaha YXZ too. I'm also doing 40 to 50 mile night rides now too. We go fast most of the time so we get 80 to over 100 miles. My buddy has a 2019 RZR turbo and has over 12,000 miles on it. It would be more but it breaks and spends a lot of time in the shop.

How does the YXZ compare to the Talon? How dependable has the YXZ been, I really like both. Trying to plan my future

 

[ehart814]

I'll answer this from my point of view. When tested against other filter mediums, the K&N consistently fares poorly. Oiled foam does a much better job at filtering out smaller particles like silt dust. There are several online comparison tests - I have yet to see one where a K&N was competitive.

I agree. I haven't read about tests, but several years ago I built a 400EX motor from the bottom up. All new, fresh bore, piston, crank, went through head, etc. It ran 8 hours and blew the head gasket (too high compression for stock head studs). Was using a freshly cleaned and oiled K&N. Took the head off and I was disgusted at the scoring in the cylinder from dust getting in. I've never used a K&N filter on an off road vehicle since.

 

[ehart814]

I use Mobile One 10w40 synethic motorcycle oil in my Talon and also in my Pioneer 1000 that I put 19,000 miles on. I use Valvoline 75w90 synethic in the dif's. Any good motorcycle oil is ok, I just like the better synethic oil's. I use Valvoline 10w40 synethic motorcycle oil in my 2016 Yamaha YXZ, got 20,000 miles on it and it still runs like new. I think the important thing is to change the oil on time. My sub trans is difficult to get into low on my 19 so I use 0w40 synethic motorcycle oil in the sub trans. GN4 is good and Amsoil is better.

are you using the 1200 mile oil change interval? I've changed mine two times so far in 1500 miles for break in. After my next oil change I'm going to start going 1200 miles I think

 

[MFG]

I am running the Mobile One motorcycle oil in the engine and trans. I also run the Mobile One gear oil in the diffs. The trans shifts so much better and quieter. It was an immediate change in smoothness.